February 7th, 2011
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This is the new Canon EF 500mm f/4L IS II lens without the hood. It is 1 1/2 pounds lighter than the old 500 and promises to be one of the sharpest telephoto lenses ever produced when used both with and without the Series III teleconverters.
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Worth the Weight? The Skinny on the Two New Canon Super-telephoto Lenses
This morning, February 7, 2011, Canon finally and officially announced the lightweight updated versions of both its 500mm and 600mm f/4L IS USM Series II professional super-telephoto lenses. Both are similar to the EF 300mm and EF 400mm f/2.8L IS II USM lenses that were released last August. The two new big guns feature completely new optical designs and water-repellant Fluorine coatings along with lighter weight construction. A new IS mode has been added that activates stabilization only during exposure. The lenses also offer optional long or short foot tripod mounts suitable for monopods or tripods and a smoother tripod collar rotation mechanism that should make it easier to rotate the lenses to vertical. (In the past, individual 500s and 600s often became quite sticky with age and some folks had problems right out of the box).
Here is the skinny on the weights:
The new 500 f/4L IS II weighs 7 pounds. This represents a weight reduction of 1.5 pounds from the 8.5 pound 500mm f/4 L IS.
The new 600 weighs only 8.8 pounds, down 3 full pounds from the weight of the 11.8 pound 600mm f/4 L IS lens.
The 800mm f/5.6L IS lens weighs 9.9 pounds.
The relatively new 800mm f/5.6 lens was the first to offer the amazingly revolutionary 4-stop Image Stabilization system. All four of the Series II super-telephoto lenses offer 4-stop IS.
The new 600 IS II offers far greater versatility than the 800mm and offers a longer effective focal length with functioning central sensor-only autofocus (1200mm with the 2X for the 600 IS II as compared to 1120mm with the 1.4X for the 800). In addition, the new 600 weighs 1.1 pounds less than the 800.
It should be mentioned at this time that the Series III teleconverters will offer improved AI Servo tracking accuracy only with the Series II Super-telephoto lenses. The micro-chips in the Series III TCs cannot communicate with the older super-telephoto lenses. Do note however that early reports indicate that the EF 2X Extender III is noticeably sharper than the EF 2X Extender II.
I will surely order one or both of the new lenses right off the bat….. If one, I have not decided which. Prices have not yet been announced 🙂
Here is the press release:
London, UK, 7th February 2011 – Canon today launches two new super-telephoto lenses for its leading EOS Digital SLR (DSLR) range – the EF 500mm F/4L IS II USM and the EF 600mm F/4L IS II USM. Designed to meet the needs of the most demanding sports and wildlife photographers, both lenses offer breakthrough performance, delivering consistently high-quality images and incredible mobility. The launch of the models follows a development announcement in August 2010, and the display of prototypes at Photokina 2010 in Cologne, Germany.
Launching into Canon’s professional L-series, the models replace the widely-respected EF 500mm F/4L IS USM and EF 600mm F/4L IS USM, and are designed to achieve unparalleled levels of image quality. Each includes the highest-quality optics and the latest Canon Image Stabilizer (IS) technology, while magnesium alloy constructions with titanium components make each lens significantly lighter and even more durable. Launching as the lightest lens in its class*1, the EF 600mm F/4L IS II USM benefits from an exceptional 27% reduction (1.4kg) in weight compared to its predecessor, while the EF 500mm F/4L IS II USM offers an impressive reduction of 17% (680g).
New levels of performance
Both lenses feature completely redesigned optics, with 16 elements in 12 groups. Canon has over 40 years of experience in the manufacturing of fluorite lens elements, and has utilized two high performance fluorite elements in these lenses– delivering high resolution, high contrast shots rich in detail across the frame.
Both lens’ optical elements feature Canon’s Super Spectra Coatings and a SubWavelength Structure Coating (SWC), optimized to effectively reduce ghosting and flare. A water-repellent fluorine coating is also used on the surface of the front and rear elements, repelling dust and dirt for clearer shots, and keeping the front element free of marks by ensuring water droplets run off the lens quickly.
Enhanced IS, precise AF
Both models feature Canon’s latest Image Stabilizer system, offering outstanding image quality during handheld shooting and allowing users to shoot at speeds up to four times slower than normally required. IS Mode 2 features new algorithms to improve performance when panning, and the new IS Mode 3 is also included, assisting users when switching between subjects by activating the IS unit only during exposure.
Both lenses offer a constant f/4 aperture, allowing photographers to achieve excellent image quality in low light and capture clear, sharp shots of fast-moving subjects. The wide aperture also allows users to creatively isolate their subjects from the background, with a nine-blade circular iris creating beautiful background blur that instantly adds atmosphere to an image.
Rapid, quiet Auto Focus (AF) is provided by a ring-type Ultrasonic Motor (USM). Photographers can also utilize full-time manual focusing functionality, which enables the fine-tuning of focus even when the AF system is activated, providing even greater control over image capture. Power Focus mode also assists users during video shooting, allowing the photographer to smoothly adjust focus during filming by twisting the focus recall ring.
Premium L-series design
Both lenses have been designed as part of Canon’s renowned elite L-series, combining exceptional-quality optics with stylish designs. Both also feature a revised layout, with carefully-positioned controls that improve everyday operation. The AF stop buttons are now location-adjustable, improving ergonomics by allowing users to custom-select the position of the lens grip where the AF stop buttons are located.
Mechanical improvements include optional long or short foot tripod mounts suitable for monopods or tripods. An improved tripod collar rotational mechanism provides a smoother movement when turning the lens from portrait to landscape orientation, and a Kensington-type wire security lock has also been included, keeping the lenses secure during location-based shoots. The robust design is also weatherproof, making both lenses suitable for use in extreme conditions when paired with a weatherproof EOS body.
*1 According to Canon market research conducted in December 2010.
February 5th, 2011
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This landing Black Vulture was photographing this morning at Anhinga Trail, Everglades National Park with the 70-200mm f.2.8L IS II lens, the 2x III TC (hand held at 342mm), and the EOS-1D Mark IV. ISO 400. Manual mode: 1/800 sec. at f/5.6. One of the big benefits of joining a workshop led by an experienced professional is learning to recognize good situations. With a nice wind from the east northeast and some vultures landing on the roof of a shelter on the boardwalk, I alerted the group to a very nice situation. Lots of good images (including the one above) were the result.
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Canon EOS Destination: Birds of the Everglades Workshop
I met a wonderful group of eager photographers last night at the Hampton Inn in Florida City. All had signed up for the 3-Day Canon EOS Destination: Birds of the Everglades Workshop. After our first program folks got to borrow tons and tons of Canon gear that was sent down via Fed-Ex by Kristen Cunningham of the Canon Digital Learning Center who organized this whole gig. Tech specialist Drew MacCallum is along to help with the gear and with gear questions.
This morning we headed down to Anhinga Trail and were greeted by mixed clouds and sun and the usual assortment of Anhingas, Double-crested Cormorants, Black Vultures, Great Blue Herons and more. Teaching in the field with a large (16) group of photographers with a diverse range of skills is always a challenge. Denise Ippolito was a huge help. We dealt with pretty much every imaginable problem in a span of four hours. As always, the folks that stayed close to Denise and me and asked lots of questions learned the most. It was Denise who actually led most of the group into the field while I stayed behind dealing with a variety of tripod, tripod head, and plate issues.
In short order most folks were creating nice head portraits on one particularly cooperative Anhinga and several Black Vultures. We went over the basics of exposure and histograms and explained head angle. With the Anhinga preening its uropygial gland one moment and posing for head portraits the next, we reviewed the necessity of working in Manual mode. (We explained that with the bird’s head set against its own black back rather than the yellow grasses you will over-expose the highlights if you are working in Av mode.)
We explained the role that the background itself and the distance to the background play in creating successful images. The sun was out about half the time. When it was, we stressed the importance of working down sun angle with your shadow pointed at the subject. Some folks listened…. 🙂 We added a bit of natural history information as well. And most importantly we talked about photographic situations, explaining why we would walk by one cormorant while getting excited by another sitting just a few yards away. I need to get back to the group soon for a short session on histograms and digital exposure so I will say bye for now.
Shopper’s Guide
Below is a list of the gear that I used to create the image above. Thanks a stack to all who have used the Shopper’s Guide links to purchase their gear as a thank you for all the free information that we bring you on the Blog and in the Bulletins.
Canon 70-200mm f/2.8L IS II lens. Man, I am loving this lens on my shoulder with the 2X teleconverter.
Canon EF 2X III TC. I am loving my new Series III 2X. Both of the new (Series III) TCs have computer chips that will communicate only with the new Series II Super-telephotos. With those lenses we are hoping to see faster initial focusing acquisition and increased AI Servo AF tracking accuracy.
Canon EOS-1D Mark IV professional digital camera body This is the very best professional digital camera body that I have even used..
And from the BAA On-line Store:
Delkin 32gb e-Film Pro Compact Flash Card. Fast and dependable.
If you are considering the purchase of a major piece of photographic gear be it a new camera, a long lens, a tripod or a head, or some accessories be sure to check out our complete Shopper’s Guide.
February 3rd, 2011
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This Anhinga was photographed this afternoon at Anhinga Trail, Everglades National Park with the 70-200mm f.2.8L IS II lens, the 2x III TC (hand held at 342mm), and EOS-1D Mark IV. ISO 400. Evaluative metering at zero: 1/320 sec. at f/5.6.
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Series III 2X TC Gut Reaction
I got to try my brand new Series III 2X today and my gut reaction is that it is quite a bit sharper than the old 2X, the EF Extender 2X II. I have not done any formal testing and will not be able to do any for several months, but the sharp images that I created today with the new, new combo were exceptionally sharp. This Anhinga seemed about ready to jump off of the screen of my HP laptop…..
More on this to follow soon.
Ah, BTW, there is a post in the gear Forum with some examples of test images that showed that the new 2X was a bit sharper than the old 2x. Scroll down here to see some test images.
More on Depth of Field (Though Beyond Me….)
I received the e-mail below from Daniel Gomez-Ibanez in response to my comments on depth-of-field in the last blog post here. He covers lots of technical stuff, most of it far beyond me….. I am sure, however, that it will be of interest to at least a few of you. If you post any questions for Daniel, I will make sure that he sees them.
After reading your blog on depth-of-field I went to the DOF MASTER site and tried it out. The DOF calculations on this site seem very generous (that is, they yield a DOF which is much deeper than I’ve experienced using Canon digital bodies). Why? It’s because DOF MASTER is using a standard for “acceptably in focus” (the so-called “circle of confusion”) which doesn’t come close to doing justice to the resolving power of our lenses and our modern digital sensors.
If you examine the circle of confusion numbers used by the DOF MASTER calculator, they are based on a 0.03mm circle of confusion for a full-frame sensor, like the 5D Mk II. For example, the calculations for a Canon 7D or any of the 1.6 crop-factor bodies use a circle of confusion of 0.019mm. (0.019 X 1.6 = 0.03). Similarly, the circle of confusion for the 1D Mk 4 (1.3 crop factor) is 0.023mm. (0.023 X 1.3 = 0.03)
What is the practical result of using a 0.03mm circle of confusion for a 36x24mm negative or sensor? It means that detail on an 8×10-inch print (about a 7x enlargement) will appear acceptably sharp when viewed from a distance of about 10 inches. This is because the human eye can just separate two points that are about 0.2mm apart at a viewing distance of 25 cm (ten inches). A 0.03mm detail on the negative becomes 0.2mm when enlarged seven times. Leica used 0.03mm as their standard for the circle of confusion when engraving depth-of-field marks on their lens barrels. Good lenses are capable of much greater resolving power than this, but “acceptably in focus” (depth-of-field) depends on how much you enlarge the image, and how far it is from your eyes. Leica settled on an 8×10 print held in the hand at ten inches.
But we have digital sensors now, and we view images on our computer monitors. Now we want to see sharp detail when we enlarge the image to view “actual pixels!” This is much more demanding than the old Leica standard! The size of an “actual pixel” on a 1D Mark IV sensor is 0.0057mm! It’s only 0.0043mm on the 7D or the 60D. Our lenses are quite capable of resolving details down to the size of a single pixel. But if we base our depth-of-field calculations on a circle of confusion of 0.03mm and enlarge the image to view the actual pixels, details will look fuzzy because a 0.03mm circle of confusion will span five, six, or even seven pixels. This would be fine for an 8×10 print, or even for a large exhibition print (say 20X30 inches) providing it is viewed from farther away (30 inches). This assumes you don’t crop your image before enlargement.
But if you want to limit the depth of field to the detail that modern lenses and sensors can resolve you need to use a much smaller circle of confusion for the calculations, one that corresponds to the physical dimensions of a single pixel on your sensor. Then your image will be “acceptably in focus” when you enlarge it to view “actual pixels.”
Fortunately, the DOF MASTER site lets you do this. At the bottom of the drop-down menu you can select a circle of confusion that corresponds more nearly to the size of a pixel on your sensor — say 0.005mm for your 1D Mark IV or 0.004mm for the 7D. You’ll get a much more accurate sense of what will appear acceptably sharp in the image when you enlarge it to “actual pixels” in Photoshop.
As a practical matter, however, you probably don’t have to use a circle of confusion that’s any smaller than two pixels — say 0.01mm. That should provide photos that are plenty sharp for most applications, including producing big enlargements from cropped images.
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Thanks again, Artie, for all your wonderful images and helpful writing. I’m always learning a lot from you and I’m a big fan!
Thanks for sharing your technical expertise with us Daniel.
Shopper’s Guide
Below is a list of the gear that I used to create the image above. Thanks a stack to all who have used the Shopper’s Guide links to purchase their gear as a thank you for all the free information that we bring you on the Blog and in the Bulletins.
Canon 70-200mm f/2.8L IS II lens. Man, I am loving this lens on my shoulder with the 2X teleconverter.
Canon EF 2X III TC. As above, my initial reaction is that the new 2X III TC is much sharper then the 2X II TC. Both of the new (Series III) TCs have computer chips that will communicate only with the new Series II Super-telephotos. With those lenses we are hoping to see faster initial focusing acquisition and increased AI Servo AF tracking accuracy.
Canon EOS-1D Mark IV professional digital camera bod.y And this is the very best professional digital camera body that I have even used..
And from the BAA On-line Store:
Delkin 32gb e-Film Pro Compact Flash Card. Fast and dependable.
If you are considering the purchase of a major piece of photographic gear be it a new camera, a long lens, a tripod or a head, or some accessories be sure to check out our complete Shopper’s Guide.
February 3rd, 2011 Oooops!
Sorry about the mis-fire with BAA Bulletin #359. We have been having Mail Chimp problems for two days. We are aware that the Bulletin showed up without images. It is online on the Bids As Art Homepage here. Jennifer is trying to resend it from home this afternoon, with the images. Thanks for bearing with us.
Later and love, artie in Homestead
ps: I should be back later tonight with a real post 🙂
pps: Everything listed for sale in the Bulletin sold within minutes.
February 1st, 2011
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This is a crop of the abstract image from the last post here. Canon 800mm f/5.6L IS lens, the 1.4X II TC, and the EOS-1D Mark IV. ISO 400. Evaluative metering -1/3 stop: 1/500 sec. at f/10.
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Abstract Thoughts
When I asked “Like it or Hate It?” in the last post here, I never expected such overwhelmingly negative responses; 4 for delete, 1 ambiguous, 1 OK “but only because I have been there,” and 1 sort of liked it. The image was received quite differently in my BPN thread that featured the same image: Seven loved the image and found it interesting and provocative. Zero hated it. You can see that thread here. Thanks to Marina Scarr for suggesting a crop from the right in Pane 10 there. The opening image here is similar but not identical to Marina’s crop.
Several folks stated or implied that they would delete the image because “they did not know what it was.” Jeez, I thought that that was the point of an abstract….
From Dictionary.Reference.com: abstract (adj.)
Fine Arts
a: of or pertaining to the formal aspect of art, emphasizing lines, colors, generalized or geometrical forms, etc., esp. with reference to their relationship to one another.
Go figure.
And oh, by the way, I liked the original but I like the repost above even more 🙂 No hard feelings though. (I never take it personally.) Heck, the last time folks were so vehemently against an image that I liked we sold it for $700 to Oprah magazine. You gotta love it.
Larry Warfield wrote, “I generally like the pattern, but the white on the right hand edge and the portion of the wing on the left hand edge keep distracting my eye from the interesting triangular pattern. I also wish the back was a little more in focus. That being said, it’s easier to be a critic that an artist. I wish I could take something, at all close to that good. Nice shot.”
The crop from the right takes care of the white. I too wish that the back were a bit more in focus but pelicans are very large bird and depth of field is quite limited with big lenses near minimum focusing distance. A quick visit to DOF Master revealed that with a focal length of 1200mm (the closest drop down menu value to 1120mm) and an aperture of f/11 (that’s what I used to create this image) that the total depth of field would be .36 inches, less than 1/2 inch. If I dropped down to f/22 the total depth of field would increase to .72 inches (just a shade less than 3/4 inch). That means that I would have gained .18 inch behind the neck (that’s where I focused) and .18 inch in front of the neck, i.e., the back. So stopping down from f/11 to f/22 would have gained only a fraction of an inch of extra d-o-f, not nearly enough to render the back feathers in sharp focus. Those back feathers are several inches closer to us than the neck….
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This is a screen capture from DOF Master. Be sure to bookmark the site but only if you want to learn a ton about depth-of-field with various focal length lenses…
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Shopper’s Guide
Below is a list of the gear that I used to create the image above. Thanks a stack to all who have used the Shopper’s Guide links to purchase their gear as a thank you for all the free information that we bring you on the Blog and in the Bulletins.
Canon 800mm f/5.L IS lens Right now this is my all time favorite super-telephoto lens.
Canon 1.4X II teleconverter This is my most used accessory; I would be lost without it.
Canon EOS-1D Mark IV professional digital camera bod.y And this is the very best professional digital camera body that I have even used..
And from the BAA On-line Store:
Gitzo 3530 LS Tripod This one will last you a lifetime.
Mongoose M3.6 Tripod Head Right now this is the best tripod head around for use with lenses that weigh less than 9 pounds. For heavier lenses, check out the Wimberley V2 head.
Double Bubble Level You will find one in my camera’s hot shoe whenever I am not using flash.
Delkin 32gb e-Film Pro Compact Flash Card Fast and depen.
If you are considering the purchase of a major piece of photographic gear be it a new camera, a long lens, a tripod or a head, or some accessories be sure to check out our complete Shopper’s Guide.
January 31st, 2011
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This somewhat abstract image was created at La Jolla, CA on the recently concluded San Diego IPT with the Canon 800mm f/5.6L IS lens, the 1.4X II TC, and the EOS-1D Mark IV. ISO 400. Evaluative metering -1/3 stop: 1/500 sec. at f/10.
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Like It or Hate It?
Do you like the image above or hate it? Would you keep it or delete it? Why?
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Canon 800mm f/5.6L IS lens with the EOS-1D Mark IV. ISO 400. Evaluative metering -1/3 stop (to save the white bill): 1/2500 sec. at f/6.3. I used the 2 AF sensors below the central sensor; I love that for my duck photography with a pro body like the MIV.
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My Thoughts on the Coot Images
In the last post (you can see it here), I asked, which coot image is better and why?
Here’s the skinny on that. On the first edit I much preferred the wider image above. By the second and third edits I was leaning towards the tighter image for the seemingly more interesting wing position, all the while know that the bird in the tight image was too far back in the frame. When I prepared and viewed the animated GIF for the last blog post, it became clear to me that the wider image above was by far the more dynamic, and that the tighter image was just a bit too tight. For me.
Thanks a stack to all of those who posted a comment voicing their opinion and backed their choice up with a variety of valid reasons. It is good to see that these exercises are getting folks thinking 🙂 The final tally was 6 1/2 to 6 1/2, so I guess the I had the tie-breaking vote…. I forgot to mention that both of the coot images are fine images and that both are keepers. For those who have not done so, reading the comments can be quite an educational endeavor.
BAA Bulletin #357
BAA Bulletin #357 is on-line and can be viewed here thanks as always to the magic and dedication of Peter Kes.
Features
- THE SAN DIEGO IPT REPORT
- BARROW JUNE 2011
- THE BLOG IS THE BOMB!
- POSSIBLE NEW CAREER FOR ME…
- KLAMATH FALLS WINTER WINGS APPEARANCE/MID-FEBRUARY 2011
- CHASING THE LIGHT/ACT FAST
- THE MICHIGAN SITE GUIDE
- SOUTH GEORGIA/FALKLANDS EXPEDITION UPDATE
- SHOPPER’S GUIDE
- IPT UPDATES
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Denise Ippolito brought a traditional tulip image in Photoshop and created this image using the Pinch Filter and her magical creativity. You can see more of her great images and learn about her latest publication, “A Creative Guide to Filters and Effects” by clicking on the link to BAA Bulletin #358 below. You can purchase a copy by clicking here.
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BAA Bulletin #358 is on-line and can be viewed here again thanks as always to the magic and dedication of Peter Kes.
Features
- A GUIDE TO CREATIVE FILTERS AND EFFECTS by DENISE IPPOLITO
- BILL THOMPSON II OF BIRD WATCHER’S DIGEST GONE
- BARROW JUNE 2011
- THE BLOG IS THE BOMB!
- KLAMATH FALLS WINTER WINGS APPEARANCE/MID-FEBRUARY 2011
- POSSE NEWS/TODD GUSTAFSON
- IPT UPDATES
Shopper’s Guide
Below is a list of the gear that I used to create the image above. Thanks a stack to all who have used the Shopper’s Guide links to purchase their gear as a thank you for all the free information that we bring you on the Blog and in the Bulletins.
Canon 800mm f/5.L IS lens Right now this is my all time favorite super-telephoto lens.
Canon 1.4X II teleconverter This is my most used accessory; I would be lost without it.
Canon EOS-1D Mark IV professional digital camera bod.y And this is the very best professional digital camera body that I have even used..
And from the BAA On-line Store:
Gitzo 3530 LS Tripod This one will last you a lifetime.
Mongoose M3.6 Tripod Head Right now this is the best tripod head around for use with lenses that weigh less than 9 pounds. For heavier lenses, check out the Wimberley V2 head.
Double Bubble Level You will find one in my camera’s hot shoe whenever I am not using flash.
Delkin 32gb e-Film Pro Compact Flash Card Fast and depen.
If you are considering the purchase of a major piece of photographic gear be it a new camera, a long lens, a tripod or a head, or some accessories be sure to check out our complete Shopper’s Guide.
January 29th, 2011
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This Brown Pelican image was created at La Jolla, CA on the recently concluded San Diego IPT with the Canon 800mm f/5.6L IS lens and the EOS-1D Mark IV. ISO 400. Evaluative metering +1/3 stop: 1/800 sec. at f/9. It is likely that this is a sub-adult bird as the red bill pouch is indicative of a bird in breeding plumage but the rest of the bird is reminiscent of a one year old bird.
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Two Simple But Great Tim Grey Photoshop Tips
When I created the image above, I had not cleaned my sensor in a while. When I processed the image, I noted three serious dust spots. I usually eliminate dust spots with the Patch Tool (“P” for me but not the default) but this time hit “J” for the Spot Healing Brush. Digital Basics folks will be familiar with the fact that I use lots of keyboard shortcuts (including many that I create myself such as “P” for the Patch Tool). In any case, I have been disappointed in the Spot Healing Brush ever since I switched to CS-5. When I have used it, I have always gotten smudging, even with something as simple as a dust spot. I had correctly set Content Aware on the Option bar but was still getting horrible smudging.
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Here you can see the dust spots that were giving my Spot Healing Brush problems. For about seven years I have been using a Lens Pen to clean my sensors quickly, easily, and safely. Purchase a Lens Pen Combo Kit from us and we will e-mail you detailed sensor cleaning instructions. Learn more here. Once the Delkin Sensor Scope came along things got even easier. If you have never cleaned your sensor and are scared stiff of doing so my best advice would be for you to save $10 by purchasing the Sensor Cleaning Bundle w/Scope, receive and study our instructions, and get to work. Thanks to Robert O’Toole for teaching me to use a Lens Pen to clean the sensors of my digital camera bodies.
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Whenever Tim Grey co-leads an IPT with me I make sure to have a list of Photoshop stuff that has been bugging me. (I am trying to sign him up for Bosque next year….) At the first opportunity, I asked him about the problems that I had been having with the Spot Healing Brush. He responded instantly, “What do you have the hardness set to?” “Zero,” I replied. “I teach folks to set the hardness of all brushes to 0%. ” “Wrong!” he said. “The Spot Healing Brush with Content Aware set works best at 100% hardness.” I tried it and it worked perfectly, not only for dust spots but in a variety of others situations as well.
“Furthermore,” he continued, “you complain that when you use the Clone Stamp Tool that you get color but no texture. What do you have the hardness set at?” “Zero again,” I said confidently. “Wrong again,” Tim shot back. Yikes, I thought, I have been teaching folks to set their brushes to 0% hardness for years. “50% works great for the Clone Stamp Tool,” said Mr. Grey. Not wanting to give in completely I set the hardness for my Clone Stamp Tool to 40% and have been thrilled with the improvement.
Live and learn. Thanks Tim!

Two coots were fighting. I swung the big lens around to frame them and they disappeared for about 30 seconds. I was mystified. When they surfaced, peace reigned and one of the birds leaned back to flap. I created three images and kept two. I used the Canon 800mm f/5.6L IS lens with the EOS-1D Mark IV. ISO 400. Evaluative metering -1/3 stop (to save the white bill): 1/2500 sec. at f/6.3. I used the 2 AF sensors below the central sensor; I love that for much of my duck photography.
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Which coot image do you like better, the wide image or the tight image? If you leave a comment let us know why you prefer the one that you do.
Shopper’s Guide
Below is a list of the gear that I used to create the image above. Thanks a stack to all who have used the Shopper’s Guide links to purchase their gear as a thank you for all the free information that we bring you on the Blog and in the Bulletins.
Canon 800mm f/5.L IS lens Right now this is my all time favorite super-telephoto lens.
Canon EOS-1D Mark IV professional digital camera bod.y And this is the very best professional digital camera body that I have even used..
And from the BAA On-line Store:
Gitzo 3530 LS Tripod This one will last you a lifetime.
Mongoose M3.6 Tripod Head Right now this is the best tripod head around for use with lenses that weigh less than 9 pounds. For heavier lenses, check out the Wimberley V2 head.
Double Bubble Level You will find one in my camera’s hot shoe whenever I am not using flash.
Delkin 32gb e-Film Pro Compact Flash Card Fast and depen.
If you are considering the purchase of a major piece of photographic gear be it a new camera, a long lens, a tripod or a head, or some accessories be sure to check out our complete Shopper’s Guide.
January 27th, 2011
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This image was created at La Jolla, CA on the recently concluded San Diego IPT at 9:18am on a rather late on a clear morning with the Canon 800mm f/5.6L IS lens and the EOS-1D Mark IV. ISO 400. ISO 400. Evaluative metering at zero: 1/1600 sec. at f/8. The 800 is actually too long a lens for the La Jolla Cliffs. A 500 is much more suitable. I had a bear of a time with the head throws clipping the end of the bill about 8 zillion times. Though I would prefer a bit more room above, this was one of the few where I managed to frame the decisive moment fairly well. I did use 45-Point AF for all of my attempts and that worked well as most of the images were quite sharp. And I do like the mottled background here.
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You Folks are Getting Too Smart
With regards to the Heerman’s Gull/pelican image. Most folks surmised that the aperture was either f/11 or f/16. That surprised me. With the pelican so obviously out of focus, I had assumed that most folks would have guessed f/5.6 or f/8. I would estimate that the pelican was less than one foot behind the bird. Even though I used f/16 the pelican is not even close to being sharp. The lesson was supposed to be that with telephoto lenses depth of field is much less than folks think. But it seems that most of you already knew that 🙂
I love lots of things about the second image, the sweet o-o-f distant ocean background, the sweet light, the sharpness, the basic composition, and the distended bill that shows off the red very nicely. But as most folks stated, the head is turned slightly away from us. As a result of that, it seems that the bird is looking away from us as well. If you would like to learn more about head angle–one of the great avian image wreckers–check out the great BPN “Head Angle Fine Points” post here
Two Simple but Great Tim Grey Tips Coming Soon
The brilliant and funny Tim Grey co-led the San Diego IPT with Todd Gustafson and me. I learned that I have been doing two very basic things wrong in Photoshop for about nine years…. And teaching others to do the same. I will rectify that situation with my next blog post.
Shopper’s Guide
Below is a list of the gear that I used to create the image above. Thanks a stack to all who have used the Shopper’s Guide links to purchase their gear as a thank you for all the free information that we bring you on the Blog and in the Bulletins.
Canon 800mm f/5.L IS lens Right now this is my all time favorite super-telephoto lens.
Canon EOS-1D Mark IV professional digital camera bod.y And this is the very best professional digital camera body that I have even used..
And from the BAA On-line Store:
Gitzo 3530 LS Tripod This one will last you a lifetime.
Mongoose M3.6 Tripod Head Right now this is the best tripod head around for use with lenses that weigh less than 9 pounds. For heavier lenses, check out the Wimberley V2 head.
Double Bubble Level You will find one in my camera’s hot shoe whenever I am not using flash.
Delkin 32gb e-Film Pro Compact Flash Card Fast and depen.
If you are considering the purchase of a major piece of photographic gear be it a new camera, a long lens, a tripod or a head, or some accessories be sure to check out our complete Shopper’s Guide.
January 26th, 2011
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This handsome pair was photographed at La Jolla, CA on the recently concluded San Diego IPT rather late on a clear morning. I used the hand held Canon 70-200mm f/2.8L IS II lens, the 2X II TC (at 270mm), and the EOS-1D Mark IV. ISO 400.
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Long Lens Depth-of-Field Question and a TC in the Pacific Tale
Here is the question: considering that the Heerman’s Gull (that’s the one in the front :)) was much more sharply rendered than the Brown Pelican in the back, what aperture do you think was used to create the image? Wide open for the combo is f/5.6.
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This is the beautiful pelican that sat on the perfect perch well away from the masses. I used the Canon 800mm f/5.6L IS lens with the EOS-1D Mark IV. ISO 400. Evaluative metering at zero: 1/2500 sec. at f/5.6. It was photographed at 8:04 am before we were joined by the human masses on the lower shelf. You be the critic; what is the only problem that I have with this image?
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BTW, here is a cute lover of what is story from La Jolla. On the morning before the IPT began I was checking out the current pelican situation. I went down to the shelf below while most folks stayed back by the platform so that the pelicans would have room to land on the point. Then I looked up and saw one guy standing up at full height and in plain view behind his tripod. I called up to him, “Excuse me sir. The birds have been very skittish this year. If you sit down or move back there would be a much better chance of the birds landing on the point.” He looked at me as if I were from outer space. I asked, “Do you have a problem with my request?” He said, “Listen Dude, I have been photographing here for 20 years and the birds have no problem with me being here.” I replied politely, “As I said, this year the birds are acting differently.” He stared at me and was obviously not going to back down so I said, “Whatever.”
I had one friend sitting with me. We sat so the birds would fly in and land. The birds refused to land up top because the dude guy was standing in full view so we had dozens of pelicans land right in front of us on the lowest cliff ledge, right into the wind. After about twenty minutes two guys–bored by the lack of birds on the upper cliffs, come down to the lower ledge with their tripods on their shoulders as if they were strolling down the supermarket aisle and were late for dinner. The birds freaked and moved to the lowest part of the cliff pretty much out of sight but for the one gorgeous bird on the perfect knobby rock to the right. I turned around and said, “Easy fellas. You just about scared away every bird.” As my new favorite author Lee Childs writes often, “They said nothing.” Any Jack Reacher fans out there?
In ten more minutes there were about 15 photographers standing behind us enjoying the pelican action. Including my friend the dude guy. At least the rest of the gang came down carefully and quietly. I though about trashing the dude guy by asking him how he could possibly have been wrong in view of his 20 years of experience. But fortunately I refrained.
Why fortunately? As it got hotter, I took off my sweatshirt on laid it beside me. At some point, I laid one of my two 1.4X teleconverters on the sweatshirt and folded the material on top of the TC. Fatal mistake…. For some reason I picked up the sweatshirt. The TC fell out of it and as fate would have it, it landed on its side and rolled inexorably down the cliff towards the Pacific Ocean. There was not even a tiny pebble to stop it. Everyone behind me gasped as it went over the edge. I laughed. It was an old one that had served me well and I would soon be ordering a Series III TC anyway. It was just part of staying in business and I try not to sweat the small stuff. Heck, I try not to sweat the big stuff either. That’s all part of being a lover of what is. (Check out the work of the wonderful Byron Katie at TheWork.com.
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This pelican flew by our position after being scared off from landing up above by the folks on the upper level 🙂 Bad for them; good for me. This is the beautiful pelican that sat on the perfect perch well away from the masses. Again I used the hand held Canon 70-200mm f/2.8L IS II lens, the 2X II TC (at 285mm), and the EOS-1D Mark IV. ISO 400. 1/2500 sec. at f/5.6 was a rare error of underexposure by me in the early light of 8:03 am. Not sure how I managed that but both the TIFF and the JPEG here look fine.
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Shopper’s Guide
Below is a list of the gear that I used to create the image above. Thanks a stack to all who have used the Shopper’s Guide links to purchase their gear as a thank you for all the free information that we bring you on the Blog and in the Bulletins.
Canon 70-200mm f/2.8L IS II lens. Man, I am loving this lens on my shoulder with the 2X teleconverter.
Canon EF Teleconverter 2X II. This 2X is currently being replaced by the EF 2X III TC.
Canon 800mm f/5.L IS lens Right now this is my all time favorite super-telephoto lens.
Canon EOS-1D Mark IV professional digital camera bod.y And this is the very best professional digital camera body that I have even used..
And from the BAA On-line Store:
Gitzo 3530 LS Tripod This one will last you a lifetime.
Mongoose M3.6 Tripod Head Right now this is the best tripod head around for use with lenses that weigh less than 9 pounds. For heavier lenses, check out the Wimberley V2 head.
Double Bubble Level You will find one in my camera’s hot shoe whenever I am not using flash.
Delkin 32gb e-Film Pro Compact Flash Card Fast and depen.
If you are considering the purchase of a major piece of photographic gear be it a new camera, a long lens, a tripod or a head, or some accessories be sure to check out our complete Shopper’s Guide.
January 24th, 2011
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This drake Wood Duck was photographed on the San Diego IPT with the Canon EF 800mm f/5.6L IS lens and the EOS-1D Mark IV. ISO 400. Evaluative metering -1/3 stop: 1/1600 sec. at f/7.1 in early morning light.
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Sunny Sunday Morning Duck Exposure Primer
With all due respect to the folks who teach that working in Manual exposure mode is always best and that “real pros” work only in Manual mode, they are dead wrong. While lying down flat in wet grass and mud while photographing ducks yesterday morning, I worked exclusively in Av mode and was able to quickly dial in exposure compensation with the thumb wheel. When a drake Wood Duck swam by, I simply dialed in -1/3 stop of exposure compensation knowing that I would create an image with the highlights pushed well to the right of the histogram. With tiny areas of bright white I knew that there was a danger of blowing the whites if I worked at the metered exposure.
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This drake Gadwall was photographed on the San Diego IPT with the Canon EF 800mm f/5.6L IS lens and the EOS-1D Mark IV. ISO 400. Evaluative metering +1/3 stop: 1/800 sec. at f/7.1 in early morning light.
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With no whites to guard against I added a bit of light to make sure that the detail in the dark patch at the rear of the bird was properly exposed. It’s always the same: expose to the right.
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This drake Ring-necked Duck was photographed on the San Diego IPT with the Canon EF 800mm f/5.6L IS lens and the EOS-1D Mark IV. ISO 400. Evaluative metering -2/3 stop: 1/1600 sec. at f/7.1 in very early morning light.
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With the large dark head and breast influencing the meter towards over-exposure a quick check of the histogram revealed that -1/3 stop exposure still yielded significant white blinkies. So I dialed in -2/3 stops and was good to go.
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This hen Mallard was photographed on the San Diego IPT with the Canon EF 800mm f/5.6L IS lens and the EOS-1D Mark IV. ISO 400. Evaluative metering +1/3 stop: 1/1250 sec. at f/7.1 in early morning light.
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With a subject that averages to a middle tone against a light blue background +1/3 stop was the way to go.
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This drake American Wigeon was also 🙂 photographed on the San Diego IPT with the Canon EF 800mm f/5.6L IS lens and the EOS-1D Mark IV. ISO 400. Evaluative metering +1/3 stop: 1/1250 sec. at f/9 in early morning light.
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Here I got lucky…. I was at +1/3 stop when I saw this bird dipping its breast in the lake, a sure sign that a flap was to follow. I followed a few basic rules: 1-Even though I would have preferred to be at the metered exposure, i.e., 0 exposure compensation, I focused and made a series of images. 2- 1-Even though I realized that working at 800mm there was very little chance that I would be able to fit the bird in the frame, I focused and made a series of images.
So I was lucky that with the big white belly in the preceding frame and the white wing patch influencing the meter towards under-exposure that there were no hot white pixels. And I was luck to fit the forward flap in the frame. (I did crop from the rear.) With digital it is best to make the image and let the chips fall where they might. I did just that here and was handsomely rewarded.
Do let me know which of the five images is your favorite. And why.
If my comments on exposure above leave you scratching your head the very least that you can do for yourself is get yourself a copy of The Art of Bird Photography II (916 pages on CD only) and study the “Exposure Simplified” section. If you already have a copy and were confused, you need to pop the CD into your computer and start studying. And if you would like to master exposure theory so that you completely understand everything above, get yourself a copy of the original The Art of Bird Photography (soft cover) and study the Exposure chapter. Best news: you can save $10 by purchasing the two-book bundle here.
Lastly, to learn the ins and outs of the location that I visited to photograph these great ducks as well as everything that you wanted to know about photographing the California race of Brown Pelican in full breeding plumage in San Diego, get yourself a copy of our San Diego Site Guide by scrolling down here. A BAA site guide is the next best thing to being on an IPT.
Shopper’s Guide
Below is a list of the gear that I used to create the images above. Thanks a stack to all who have used the Shopper’s Guide links to purchase their gear as a thank you for all the free information that we bring you on the Blog and in the Bulletins.
Canon 800mm f/5.L IS lens Right now this is my all time favorite super-telephoto lens.
Canon EOS-1D Mark IV professional digital camera body And this is the very best professional digital camera body that I have ever used.
And from the BAA On-line Store:
Gitzo 3530 LS Tripod This one will last you a lifetime.
Mongoose M3.6 Tripod Head Right now this is the best tripod head around for use with lenses that weigh less than 9 pounds. For heavier lenses, check out the Wimberley V2 head.
Double Bubble Level You will find one in my camera’s hot shoe whenever I am not using flash.
Delkin 32gb e-Film Pro Compact Flash Card Fast and dependable.
If you are considering the purchase of a major piece of photographic gear be it a new camera, a long lens, a tripod or a head, or some accessories be sure to check out our complete Shopper’s Guide.
January 21st, 2011
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This Marbled Godwit image was created with the Canon EF 70-200 f/2.8L IS II with the 2X II TC (hand held at 400mm) and the EOS-1D Mark IV. ISO 400. Evaluative metering +1/3 stop: 1/1600 sec. at f/7.1.
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Using the Right Tool
After two hours of photographing feeding Marbled Godwits with the 800, I realized that I was simply working too tight; I was using the wrong tool. So I left my big lens on the beach, grabbed my favorite zoom lens along with the 2X TC, and waded back into the surf.
By using a shorter lens, I was able to include more of the gold beautiful reflections. When I reviewed my images, I was disappointed in all of the images made with my big lens. The image above was my favorite by far.
Surf Scoter Image Quiz Comments
In the January 18, 2011 blog post here, I posted two Surf Scoter head portraits and asked five questions. You will find them below, along with my comments.
1-If you see a drake Surf Scoter swimming right at you on a sunny day would you want to be in Av Mode or in Manual Mode? And why? (Clue: there is only one right answer….)
You need to be in Manual mode. As several folks pointed out, as the bird gets larger in the frame there will be more black influencing the meter resulting in the bright whites being over-exposed. Becky was the first to answer correctly. Kudos to Kaustubh for his excellent explanation:
“When the …. light is constant, better to be in manual metering mode so that …. changes do not change the exposure. Exposure preset so as to not blow the whites/red but have them pretty close to the right side of histogram( which will make sure blacks aren’t blocked).”
2-However you choose to expose in the above situation what should be your main concern be?
My main concern was to avoid over-exposing those very bright whites. I created a single image in Av Mode when the bird was far away and saw that the two large patches of white were flashing at 1/1000 sec. at f/8 so I went a third stop darker to 1/1250 sec. at f/8 and eliminated the blinkies. As the bird swam closer to us I stopped down to 1/640 sec. at f/11 for the first image in the post. (At a given aperture, depth of field at a given aperture is reduced as the subject gets closer to the camera; that’s why you need to learn to stop down when working close to your lenses minimum focusing distance.) When the bird swam right up to the boardwalk I noted that I had a few blinkies so I stopped down an additional 1/3 stop to 1/640 sec. at f/13.
3-Which of the two images is your favorite? And why?
I love them both but favor the first image just a bit because of the crystal clear reflection and the softer blue water.
4-Why is the water a darker blue in the second image?
When the bird was a good distance from the boardwalk, the water reflected the distant, very light blue sky not too far above the horizon because the angle of declination of the lens is relatively shallow. As it got closer to the boardwalk I needed to point the lens down more and the angle of declination became steeper. Now the water reflected the darker blue sky more directly overhead…. When you are working from well above the water the sky will become progressively darker as the bird gets closer. That’s why its great to get down on the ground when possible.
5-The first image has a critique-able flaw. BPN Out of the Box Forum moderator Denise Ippolito spotted it in an instant. What flaw was she talking about? (Clue: it is not something subjective; it is something that can be proven….)
If you draw a line from the the pupil in the bird’s eye in to the pupil in the reflection in the first image, you will see that the image needed a small clockwise rotation. Subhrashis was on the right track there 🙂
Shopper’s Guide
Below is a list of the gear that I used to create the image above. Thanks a stack to all who have used the Shopper’s Guide links to purchase their gear as a thank you for all the free information that we bring you on the Blog and in the Bulletins.
Canon 70-200mm f/2.8L IS II lens. Man, I am loving this lens on my shoulder with the 2X teleconverter.
Canon EF Teleconverter 2X II. This 2X is currently being replaced by the EF 2X III TC.
Canon EOS-1D Mark IV professional digital camera bod.y And this is the very best professional digital camera body that I have even used..
And from the BAA On-line Store:
Delkin 32gb e-Film Pro Compact Flash Card. Fast and dependable.
If you are considering the purchase of a major piece of photographic gear be it a new camera, a long lens, a tripod or a head, or some accessories be sure to check out our complete Shopper’s Guide.
January 19th, 2011
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This Brandt’s Cormorant image was created with the handheld Canon EF 70-200mm f/2.8 L IS zoom lens with the 2X II TC (hand held at 292mm) and the EOS-1D Mark IV. ISO 50. Evaluative metering +2 1/3 stops: 1/15 sec. at f/10. Lens micro-adjustment -2. AI Servo AF.
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Winning the Lottery
After doing the introductory slide program last night for the San Diego IPT group and several invited guests, we took a look at the 701 images that I created yesterday morning at La Jolla. All groups love to watch me edit, to learn why I kept two images while deleting 11 similar images. I had created about 70 intentionally blurred cormorant images and while reviewing the first 60 or so we had selected about 4 potential keepers. When I hit the forward button in the BreezeBrowser slide show that I use for editing a day’s take everyone agreed that this was the winner by far and that there was not need to keep the others.
That’s how it goes when trying to create pleasingly blurred images. In A Guide to Pleasing Blurs (which I co-authored with Denise Ippolito) I wrote “Creating a killer pleasing blur is like winning the lottery; it takes a lot of tickets to come up with a winner.” As we discuss in the guide, it pays to vary your shutter speeds. I created all of the images in the series at shutter speeds between 1/4 and 1/30 sec. The closer a bird is to you and the faster it is flying or flapping, the greater the apparent blur at a given shutter speed. If you take a look at the focal length for this image you will see that it flew by at close range. Thus the surreal blur.
Some folks hate all blurs. For some they are an acquired taste. Love it or hate it, let me know your thoughts on this one, good or bad 🙂
Bookmark This Site
Serious photographers wake early and stay out late. They are quite concerned about light. They study the natural history of their subjects and realize the influence of the winds and tides on the birds and animals and the implications for their photography. I am sure that most of you have a favorite weather web site; I use Weather.com. Years ago I discovered SaltwaterTides.Com. Here is a link to the home page. And here is a link to the page that I used to plan this IPT.
The site provide data for high and low tides, the height of each tide, the time of sunrise, sunset, moon rise, and moon set as well as the phase of the moon for each location. All in one convenient spots and all available via a click or two. Do remember to bookmark this valuable site.
Shopper’s Guide
Below is a list of the gear that I used to create the image above. Thanks a stack to all who have used the Shopper’s Guide links to purchase their gear as a thank you for all the free information that we bring you on the Blog and in the Bulletins.
Canon 70-200mm f/2.8L IS II lens. Man, I am loving this lens on my shoulder with the 2X teleconverter.
Canon EF Teleconverter 2X II. This 2X is currently being replaced by the EF 2X III TC.
Canon EOS-1D Mark IV professional digital camera bod.y And this is the very best professional digital camera body that I have even used..
And from the BAA On-line Store:
Delkin 32gb e-Film Pro Compact Flash Card. Fast and dependable.
If you are considering the purchase of a major piece of photographic gear be it a new camera, a long lens, a tripod or a head, or some accessories be sure to check out our complete Shopper’s Guide.
January 18th, 2011
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I photographed this drake Surf Scoter yesterday morning from the boardwalk at Bolsa Chica Ecological Reserve in Huntington Beach, CA with the Canon 800mm f/5.6L IS lens, the 1.4X II TC, and the EOS-1D Mark IV. ISO 400. Exposure date will be revealed in a future post 🙂
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“I Know Him Pretty Well…”
When I got to Bolsa early on Monday morning, there were very few birds around. Very few. Some Lesser Scaups, a few Ring-billed Gulls, and some Willets flying by. Yikes. I made the drive up from San Diego as I had an appointment with human health specialist Melvin Tann at his new office in Santa Ana. The guy is amazing. Learn more about Zenergy here. In any case, I did not know of any other options so I stayed to see if anything developed. I chatted with the first photographer to arrive after me, a really nice guy named Art Holland. He told me that some Surf Scoters had flown in in the morning the previous day and hung out near the boardwalk. Ah, I had hope. I had photographed this species on film at Bolsa more than a decade ago and was excited about having a chance on them with digital.
Two more photographers showed up and at about 7:20 am so did the scoters: two adult males, two females, and an immature male flew in and landed about 100 yards from the boardwalk. Within ten minutes a single drake began swimming towards us and we had some good chances. Note: the two images in this blog were not created until just before 9am in relatively harsh light. (“When the light is bright, think tight.”)
After our first scoter chance, I heard one of the photographers say, “I’d love to go to one of his workshops or seminars but they are just too expensive. I think that he has a seminar in San Diego soon.” Half curious and half pretty sure that they were talking about me I asked, “Who are you guys talking about?” One of them answered, “Art Morris.
I said, “I know him pretty well. Very well in fact.” I walked up to the first guy, put my hand out and said, “Your name…” “Don Burd,” he answered. “Arthur Morris,” I responded. I don’ think that Art or Ramon, yet another nice guy, had had a clue as to who I was. But as soon as I said “Arthur Morris,” each began to smile. Don looked quite confused for a few moments. Eventually it registered with him and he blurted out “No way!” “Way” I said. And we all had a good laugh.
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As the bird continued swimming right towards the boardwalk, I kept on firing! Again with the Canon 800mm f/5.6L IS lens, the 1.4X II TC, and the EOS-1D Mark IV. ISO 400. And yes, the exposure data and mode will be revealed in a day or two.
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Surf Scoter Image Questions
1-If you see a drake Surf Scoter swimming right at you on a sunny day would you want to be in Av Mode or in Manual Mode? And why? (Clue: there is only one right answer….)
2-However you choose to expose in the above situation what should be your main concern be?
3-Which of the two images is your favorite? And why?
4-Why is the water a darker blue in the second image?
5-The first image has a critique-able flaw. BPN Out of the Box Forum moderator Denise Ippolito spotted it in an instant. What flaw was she talking about? (Clue: it is not something subjective; it is something that can be proven….)
Shopper’s Guide
Below is a list of the gear that I used to create the images above. Thanks a stack to all who have used the Shopper’s Guide links to purchase their gear as a thank you for all the free information that we bring you on the Blog and in the Bulletins.
Canon 800mm f/5.L IS lens Right now this is my all time favorite super-telephoto lens.
Canon 1.4X II teleconverter This is my most used accessory; I would be lost without it
Canon EOS-1D Mark IV professional digital camera body And this is the very best professional digital camera body that I have even used.
And from the BAA On-line Store:
Gitzo 3530 LS Tripod This one will last you a lifetime.
Mongoose M3.6 Tripod Head Right now this is the best tripod head around for use with lenses that weigh less than 9 pounds. For heavier lenses, check out the Wimberley V2 head.
Double Bubble Level You will find one in my camera’s hot shoe whenever I am not using flash.
Delkin 32gb e-Film Pro Compact Flash Card Fast and dependable.
If you are considering the purchase of a major piece of photographic gear be it a new camera, a long lens, a tripod or a head, or some accessories be sure to check out our complete Shopper’s Guide.
January 16th, 2011
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I photographed this winter plumage Herring Gull from the car at Shinnecock Inlet, Long Island, NY with the Canon 800mm f/5.6L IS lens, the 1.4X II TC, and the EOS-1D Mark IV. ISO 400. Evaluative metering +2/3 stop: 1/1250 sec. at f/8 (in Av Mode). My rig was supported by a BLUBB filled with bird seed. (That worked out quite well as the bird seed was lighter than the same volume of pinto beans.)
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Working Right on Sun Angle
When I was positioning the car to make the image above, I remember moving it as little as an inch or two forward or back to make sure that my shadow was pointed directly at the subject. Working right on sun angle is so important to me and I have been doing it for so long that today I do it almost without thinking.
The January 13th post, My Thoughts on “Bright Ideas: You be the Photo Editor” did not elicit a firestorm of comments but there was one controversial one in addition to some great comments and suggestions.
Roger Williams (January 15, 2011 at 11:00 am) wrote, “Please say a bit more about, “working right on sun angle”.
I responded, “Thanks for your question. You must be new here and new to the wide array of BAA educational materials as this is a topic that I have written reams on. Please see this morning’s (Sunday, January 16, 2011’s) blog post.”
One of my rare but consistent rant topics is that folks with expensive camera gear simply do not take advantage of the fabulous educational resources available today and in addition, many if not most are not willing to study, practice, and do the work that is needed to improve their photography. Though several years old, The Art of Bird Photography II (916 pages on CD) is a tremendous resource. It took me four years to write and includes everything that I learned about nature photography from 1998 (when the original The Art of Bird Photography was released) until late 2006.
In addition, probably 3/4 of my current 17,095 comments on Bird Photographers.Net deal with folks having problems with either the proper light angle or the proper head angle. Those two flaws are rampant in images posted for critiquing.
Here is an excerpt from The Art of Bird Photography II (page 177) adapted for this blog post:
Light-Angle
I am a huge (one could pretty much say “obsessed”) fan of direct frontal lighting. And surely all IPT participants would tell you that I am—among all natural history photography instructors—its biggest proponent. Except when creating silhouettes or when working in other backlit situations, I want my shadow pointed directly at the bird in almost all cases. I simply do not like side-lit images of birds—expose for the highlight side and the shadowed side loses all detail. The concept is a simple one: I want the bird in front of me with the sun coming right over the top of my head. It bears repeating: I want my shadow pointed right at the subject.
In extreme lowlight situations, you do not—of course—want your shadow to fall either partially or completely on the subject. In these instances, work off-angle to the light just enough so that your shadow does not appear anywhere in the image. Ideally, connecting the dots between the light source (the sun), the photographer, and the subject will yield a straight line. With birds, and many other natural history subjects as well, utilizing direct frontal lighting will yield images of subjects that are evenly and pleasingly lit. No shadows cast by any parts of the bird will fall on the bird itself. Realize also that when making backlit or silhouetted images, the most
dramatic results are created when the subject is on a line drawn from the photographer to the light source: it is best to position yourself so that the subject is precisely between you and the sun as doing so will ensure the most dramatic lighting and the richest colors.
The above is just one of hundreds of similar lessons in the CD book. The very next one covered in the book is Subject-to-Imaging Sensor or Film-Plane Orientation…. If your everyday gear costs thousands or tens of thousands of dollars and you are not familiar with every topic covered in ABP II you are not fulfilling your potential as a photographer….
Yeah, if I get you to buy a copy of the CD I will make a few bucks, but your photography will improve by leaps and bounds if you study and practice 🙂 How much is that worth?
I gotta get outta here and head to La Jolla. See you here again soon.
Shopper’s Guide
Below is a list of the gear that I used to create the images above. Thanks a stack to all who have used the Shopper’s Guide links to purchase their gear as a thank you for all the free information that we bring you on the Blog and in the Bulletins.
Canon 800mm f/5.L IS lens Right now this is my all time favorite super-telephoto lens.
Canon 1.4X II teleconverter This is my most used accessory; I would be lost without it
Canon EOS-1D Mark IV professional digital camera body And this is the very best professional digital camera body that I have even used.
And from the BAA On-line Store:
Gitzo 3530 LS Tripod This one will last you a lifetime.
Mongoose M3.6 Tripod Head Right now this is the best tripod head around for use with lenses that weigh less than 9 pounds. For heavier lenses, check out the Wimberley V2 head.
Double Bubble Level You will find one in my camera’s hot shoe whenever I am not using flash.
Delkin 32gb e-Film Pro Compact Flash Card Fast and dependable.
If you are considering the purchase of a major piece of photographic gear be it a new camera, a long lens, a tripod or a head, or some accessories be sure to check out our complete Shopper’s Guide.
January 14th, 2011
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This Red-shouldered Hawk image was created on a trip aboard James Shadle’s pontoon boat Hooptie Deux last Saturday out to Alafia Banks in Tampa Bay. I was hand holding the Canon 70-200mm f/2.8L IS II lens with the 2X II TC (at 400mm) with the EOS-1D Mark IV. ISO 400: 1/1600 sec. at f/6.3 in Manual mode. I often wonder what my life would be like if I did not live during the wondrous explosion of digital photography and technology, if I would have found an outlet for my artistic side….
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Two Tramps in Mud Time
At the very end of the January 13 blog post, My Thoughts on “Bright Ideas: You be the Photo Editor”, I wrote: “A parting thought: after viewing the lightbox consider how blessed a life I have led….”
This morning while checking the comments I found this:
Glen Fox (January 14, 2011 at 9:24 am) re: ”A parting thought; after viewing the light box consider how blessed a life I have led…”
It takes a wise man to realize that. Where you have travelled, what you have seen and witnessed, captured and created is certainly a gift. Your days as a school teacher clearly were a blessing to some of your students who went out of their way to tell you and thank you. You are one of the lucky few who have never had a job, but rather a vocation. It hasn’t always been an easy road. Thank you for sharing it with us. We are all the richer for it.
I responded: “Thanks Glen for your kind, appreciative, and supportive comment.”
As I read Glen’s comment, the word vocation immediately spurred thoughts of a Robert Frost poem that had grabbed my attention a few years ago. But I could not remember the title. I remembered vocation, Frost, and two eyes. So I typed “vocation Frost two eyes” into the Google address bar and hit Enter. Bingo. In less than a fraction of a second “Two Tramps in Mud Time” appeared at the top of the list. It was the first of 200,000 hits that were brought up in 9/100 of one second. Talk about an amazing time to be on the planet….
Probably my very greatest blessing is that I love what I do. I love making images. And I love teaching others to make better images. My job is my passion. And that is good 🙂
TWO TRAMPS IN MUD TIME
Out of the mud two strangers came
And caught me splitting wood in the yard,
And one of them put me off my aim
By hailing cheerily “Hit them hard!”
I knew pretty well why he had dropped behind
And let the other go on a way.
I knew pretty well what he had in mind:
He wanted to take my job for pay.
Good blocks of oak it was I split,
As large around as the chopping block;
And every piece I squarely hit
Fell splinterless as a cloven rock.
The blows that a life of self-control
Spares to strike for the common good,
That day, giving a loose my soul,
I spent on the unimportant wood.
The sun was warm but the wind was chill.
You know how it is with an April day
When the sun is out and the wind is still,
You’re one month on in the middle of May.
But if you so much as dare to speak,
A cloud comes over the sunlit arch,
A wind comes off a frozen peak,
And you’re two months back in the middle of March.
A bluebird comes tenderly up to alight
And turns to the wind to unruffle a plume,
His song so pitched as not to excite
A single flower as yet to bloom.
It is snowing a flake; and he half knew
Winter was only playing possum.
Except in color he isn’t blue,
But he wouldn’t advise a thing to blossom.
The water for which we may have to look
In summertime with a witching wand,
In every wheelrut’s now a brook,
In every print of a hoof a pond.
Be glad of water, but don’t forget
The lurking frost in the earth beneath
That will steal forth after the sun is set
And show on the water its crystal teeth.
The time when most I loved my task
The two must make me love it more
By coming with what they came to ask.
You’d think I never had felt before
The weight of an ax-head poised aloft,
The grip of earth on outspread feet,
The life of muscles rocking soft
And smooth and moist in vernal heat.
Out of the wood two hulking tramps
(From sleeping God knows where last night,
But not long since in the lumber camps).
They thought all chopping was theirs of right.
Men of the woods and lumberjacks,
The judged me by their appropriate tool.
Except as a fellow handled an ax
They had no way of knowing a fool.
Nothing on either side was said.
They knew they had but to stay their stay
And all their logic would fill my head:
As that I had no right to play
With what was another man’s work for gain.
My right might be love but theirs was need.
And where the two exist in twain
Theirs was the better right–agreed.
But yield who will to their separation,
My object in living is to unite
My avocation and my vocation
As my two eyes make one in sight.
Only where love and need are one,
And the work is play for mortal stakes,
Is the deed ever really done
For Heaven and the future’s sakes.
I am not sure how I did it, but I have united my avocation and my vocation “as my two eyes make one in sight.” And for that I am glad.
I am holed up in the Marriott Courtyard Orlando Airport. I fly to San Diego at 6:55am tomorrow for a few appointments with health care professional friends and the sold out IPT that begins on Tuesday and ends on Sunday. I will be back soon with some pelican images 🙂 This trip begins a four month stretch of extensive travel for me; I will be visiting San Diego, Everglades National Park, conducting the sold out SW President’s Week IPT, speaking in the cold at Klamath, Oregon, flying to Greece for the sold out Dalmatian Pelican IPT, flying to Homer with Robert O’Toole for two sold out Bald Eagle IPTs, and then flying to Hawaii for five days and continuing on to Midway. Yikes! Folks often ask me, “Don’t you hate waking up in a motel more than half the year?” My answer, “If I did not love the travel I would stay home.”
Shopper’s Guide
Below is a list of the gear that I used to create the image above. Thanks a stack to all who have used the Shopper’s Guide links to purchase their gear as a thank you for all the free information that we bring you on the Blog and in the Bulletins.
Canon 70-200mm f/2.8L IS II lens. Man, I am loving this lens on my shoulder with the 2X teleconverter.
Canon EF Teleconverter 2X II. This 2X is currently being replaced by the EF 2X III TC.
Canon EOS-1D Mark IV professional digital camera bod.y And this is the very best professional digital camera body that I have even used..
And from the BAA On-line Store:
Delkin 32gb e-Film Pro Compact Flash Card. Fast and dependable.
If you are considering the purchase of a major piece of photographic gear be it a new camera, a long lens, a tripod or a head, or some accessories be sure to check out our complete Shopper’s Guide.
January 13th, 2011
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I kneeled behind my lowered tripod to create this Dunlin image on a trip aboard James Shadle’s pontoon boat Hooptie Deux last Saturday out to Alafia Banks in Tampa Bay. Canon 800mm f/5.6L IS lens with the 1.4X teleconverter and the EOS-1D Mark IV. ISO 800. Evaluative metering +2/3 stop: 1/500 sec. at f/9 set manually. Kneeling is difficult for me but lying down in the salt water was not an option. With long glass, kneeling can yield a pleasing perspective as your angle of declination (the number of degrees that your lens is angled downward from the parallel-to-the-ground position) will be relatively shallow. To see the original and for a great tip on photographing feeding shorebirds, check out my BPN post here. Click here for great early spring Roseate Spoonbill photography with James.
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OP Article Title “Thoughts and Thanks”
Thanks a stack for the record number of comments suggesting titles for my Outdoor Photographer article on getting low with big lenses. There were lots of great ideas and lots of the suggestions put a big smile on my face. My favorite was Paul Mckenzie’s “Low and Behold.” I just e-mailed the article to OP’s editor Chris Robinson with Paul’s title in place. I will let you know how it goes. Magazines will often come up with improved titles but I doubt that they can do better than “Low and Behold.”
More on the Lens Align Mark II
I wanted everyone to know that sales of the new Lens Align unit have gone through the roof. Thanks to those of you who ordered; all of the Lens Align Mark IIs will ship on either Monday or Tuesday as the big storm in Memphis the other day delayed a parts shipment to the manufacturer. (We did ship the first 14 on Thursday :))
I added the image below to the original tutorial here to illustrate this major point in the text:
“Then I return to the camera set up and aim the lens and adjust and tighten the the tripod head so that the central AF sensor is on the center of the focusing target on the left side of the Lens Align Mark II device. Then I hit the rear button to focus while looking through the viewfinder. Getting the central sensor to rest precisely on the center of the target once you let go of your rig is actually more difficult than it seems and will usually require several attempts.”
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Work right on sun angle: Hood Mockingbird threat posture, Punta Suarez, Hood Island, Galapagos
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Here is an exchange with Joerg Rockenberger based on his January 12, 2011 at 10:47 am comment:
JR: Absolutely excellent tutorial on the LensAlign MII. And perfect timing. I just received mine last week and was still pondering the best strategy about how to use it. Your tutorial is certainly most helpful. A few comments/suggestions if you allow.
AM: Thanks for your kind words. You and lots of others who commented appreciated the clarity of the instructions. I worked on the tutorial for about 16 hours…. And I learned a ton while experimenting.
JR: It came to me as a bit of a surprise that the LAMII came only with a 1/4-20 thread. I wish Michael Tapas had emphasized this more on his website and clarified that it should be used in conjunction with a camera/lens base plate. Your readers might benefit from such info.
AM: Now they know 🙂 I will let Michael know of your concern via e-mail and add that info to the original tutorial. Done!
JR: I think that using a remote shutter release (wired or wireless) may possibly be a better alternative to touching the camera. It autofocuses with a “half-press” – at least with the 40D
AM: Lately I have gone to rear button focus. That turns out to be quite convenient for making a Lens Alignment. As for using a cable release there are several issues: 1-I have never been able to make a sharp image at a slow shutter speed with a cable release. Ever. It is not just a matter of mirror slap. Big lenses just do not stay still unless you have your hands on them. 2: Once I press the shutter button to activate IS I steady the lens as I normally do and wait for everything to calm down and then gently depress the shutter button. I would encourage folks to try both methods and let me know how they do.
JR: Furthermore, you should be able to defocus as well as trigger the shutter from your laptop via the EOS utility reducing the need to touch the carefully aligned camera/lens setup.
AM: I believe that you are correct but as above I am a hands on type of guy….
JR: Shooting from the inside of a house to the outside may be impacted by the temperature difference just like with photographing from a car. Maybe less of a problem in Florida this time of the year.
AM: I am not exactly sure where you are going with that; please explain.
JR- Aligning the camera/lens/LAMII may benefit from an assistant – especially with the long distances involved with big glass.
AM: As I said in the tutorial the aiming process was actually very simple. As long as I took care when aiming the LAMII I nailed the red circle in the center every time.
JR: At least with the 40D the USB cable between the camera and a computer was part of the package so it’s not necessarily an extra purchase. That cable worked for me also in downloading images from a 1DMkIV when I forgot to bring my card reader. So, I presume it works also for tethering a 1DMkIV to a computer.
AM: Thanks for that. How long is the cable? I am pretty sure that it will work. Thanks for your comments and suggestions.
Shopper’s Guide
Below is a list of the gear that I used to create the images above. Thanks a stack to all who have used the Shopper’s Guide links to purchase their gear as a thank you for all the free information that we bring you on the Blog and in the Bulletins.
Canon 800mm f/5.L IS lens Right now this is my all time favorite super-telephoto lens.
Canon EOS-1D Mark IV professional digital camera body And this is the very best professional digital camera body that I have even used.
And from the BAA On-line Store:
Gitzo 3530 LS Tripod This one will last you a lifetime.
Mongoose M3.6 Tripod Head Right now this is the best tripod head around for use with lenses that weigh less than 9 pounds. For heavier lenses, check out the Wimberley V2 head.
Double Bubble Level You will find one in my camera’s hot shoe whenever I am not using flash.
Delkin 32gb e-Film Pro Compact Flash Card Fast and dependable.
If you are considering the purchase of a major piece of photographic gear be it a new camera, a long lens, a tripod or a head, or some accessories be sure to check out our complete Shopper’s Guide.
January 12th, 2011 My Thoughts on “Bright Ideas: You be the Photo Editor”
It’s been a while since I posted “Bright Ideas: You be the Photo Editor.” Helen Longest-Saccone, the Editor-in-Chief of Nature Photographer magazine, has been busy up in Maine working on some new projects and just got back to me yesterday with her selects. I will share those with you at the end of this post. You will find the original post here. And you can view the Editor’s Lightbox here.
Do understand that I love each of the images in the lightbox; I never send anything out for consideration that I do not judge to be technically excellent and artistically pleasing. Here I present my picks for each category. If you would like to see the tech specs you can find them with each image in the lightbox in slideshow mode. They will be on the lower left and you will need to scroll down a bit to view them. Thanks a stack to all who tried their hand at making the selections.
To learn more about Nature Photographer magazine click here but do not expect to connect until the blizzard leaves Maine 🙂
My Picks
Below are my category picks each followed by a brief educational comment.
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Work right on sun angle: Painted Bunting, Cozad Ranch, Linn, TX.
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I remember moving the blind a bit every ten minutes so that the sun angle lined up perfectly with the left edge of the tiny man-made pond.
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When the light is bright, think tight: Chinstrap Penguin, Half-Moon Island,Antarctica.
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Here the sun was coming a shade from the right so I got in tight and used just a bit of flash.
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Use lots of flash: Yellow-billed Kite, Ngorngoro Crater, Tanazania
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With a bright sunny midday to contend with I used a Better Beamer on my flash and used full power: Manual Mode at 1:1 know that there was no way I could overexpose the shaded undersides of the bird. I was right! This very old digital image was created in January 2001 with the EOS-1D. Heck, it might have been 2002 if I had the date wrong on the camera….
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Create pleasing blurs with the help of light-robbing filters: Snow Geese Blast-Off, Bosque del Apache NWR, NM
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This one was created at 10:31 am with a warming polarizer screwed onto the front of my 100-400 zoom lens and rotated to dark as possible. You can purchase the 77mm size here. You can learn lots more about creating pleasing blurs in “A Guide to Pleasing Blurs” by Denise Ippolito and yours truly.
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Utilize strong backlight (gasp!), Backlit Sunflower, Bosque del Apache NWR, NM
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Here the flower was backlit by the strong New Mexico sun. The background was a pile of dirt that was obviously in its own deep shade!
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Create shade for your subject: Mexican Milkweed blossoms, Hidalgo County, TX
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Linda Robbins, the Hummingbird Queen, kindly shaded this patch of flowers for me with her body as I photographed it with a 500mm lens and two extension tubes.
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Find a subject in the shade: Barnacles, Parker River NWR, MA
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I was walking down the beach in bright sun with a group. I said, “I want to find a flat rock completely covered with barnacles. But the barnacles need to be on the shaded side of the rock. And it needs to be a big rock so I don’t have to get down on my knees on this rocky beach. When we find the perfect rock, I will use a gold reflector to light up the barnacles.” I did just what I said, set up the image with the 180 macro lens (and film!). I invited the group to check out my image by looking through the viewfinder. (There were no LCD screens on film cameras….) Well, the first person who checked out my image immediately commented, “You are SO lucky.” Man, you gotta love it.
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Work right on sun angle: Hood Mockingbird threat posture, Punta Suarez, Hood Island, Galapagos
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Since working right down sun angle is the most valuable tip that I can give for those hoping to create pleasing images in bright sun, I used two image to illustrate the concept 🙂
Helen’s Picks
Below are Helen’s picks. She was not constrained by categories as you were 🙂
American Wigeon head portrait calling male, Bosque Del Apache NWR, San Antonio, NM.jpg
Roseate Spoonbill wing stretch, Alafia Banks, Tampa Bay, FL
Marine Iguana showing teeth, Punta Espinoza, Fernandina, Galapagos.jpg
Yellow-billed Kite-best, Ngorngoro Crater, Tanzania
Olive Baboon yawning, Lake Manyara National Park, Tanzania
Ring-necked Duck, vertical, head w water drops, Phoenix AZ
Mew Gull on nest in shade, Kukak Bay, Katmai National Park, AK
Horned Puffin flared flight backlit, Duck Island, Lake Clark National Park, AK
Sunflower backlit vertical, Bosque Del Apache NWR San Antonio NM
Gentoo Penguin, vertical w bill open, Sea-Lion Island,Falkland Islands
Turkey-Vulture, vertical, Indian Lake Estates, FL
You can view Helen’s picks in the Editor’s Lightbox here.
Helen picked 11 images so that she would have some leeway when it comes time for the color layout. We only picked two of the same images. No problema there as I did say that I love all of them. I love the spoonbill wing stretch. And the iguana showing its teeth. Canon chose that one for an on line Photo District News advertorial. Not sure how I did not pick the Olive Baboon yawning; it was created on a hellaciously sunny and hot afternoons in a deep forest. An instant before I created this image one of the clients asked, “Why are we here?” I pushed the shutter button, showed him the image on the back of the camera, and said, “Here’s why.” He of course missed the image…..
I will see you all again soon. Thanks to the almost 100 folks who have already ordered their Lens Align Mark IIs from us and to those who commented favorably on the tutorial. A parting thought: after viewing the lightbox consider how blessed a life I have led….
January 11th, 2011
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This is the assembled Lens Align Mark II. Thanks to Michael Tapes for the image.
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The Lens Align Mk II: Micro-adjusting Magic!
Ever since the introduction of digital camera bodies that feature micro-adjustments for individual lenses, folks–including me–have been searching for a quick, easy way to make those micro-adjustments. In the recent updates of the 7D and the Mark IV User’s Guides, I worked hard on developing a make-it-yourself cardboard rig that was a big improvement on the original version. But in reality, it does not offer the needed precision. And in addition to the extremely low cost, the rig took up lots of space–heck, it was huge, and using it was tedious work.
I had heard about Lens Align for some time, but a quick web check revealed that it was expensive. And performing the calibrations seemed to require somewhat of an extraordinary effort…. Well, Michael Tapes, the designer/creator/inventor of Lens Align has–with the recent introduction of the Lens Align MkII–drastically changed the playing field And by tethering your camera to a laptop computer the process itself is now not only simple and easy to do, but it is actually fun. Before I headed to New York I had a blast micro-adjusting all of my lenses. For the first few sessions Peter Kes tutored me via Skype!
I began writing this draft about two weeks ago after having used the original Lens Align Pro to do my initial micro-adjustments. On the afternoon of Monday, January 10, 2011, I broke open a Lens Align Mark II. As I took the pieces out of their plastic bags my original thoughts were “$79 for this flimsy set-up.” But I faithfully followed the directions and within minutes I had assembled a sturdy, jeez, practically rugged little kit that amazed me with its precise design. Michael Tapes should win some sort of Nobel prize for engineering and design ingenuity. Within minutes I had my 800mm rig tethered to the laptop to check on my previous micro-adjustments and to make sure that the tutorial was clearly written, error free, and as clear as the proverbial bell.
The new Lens Align MkII offers an inexpensive, accurate and repeatable methodology that allows photographers to test for potential front/back focus issues. The MkII maintains the high quality standards of the original LensAlign Pro and uses the same patent pending True Parallel Alignment™ (TPA™) Sighting System that is an exclusive feature of all genuine LensAlign products. TPA allows the user to establish exact parallel alignment between the camera’s sensor-plane and the focus target of LensAlign quickly and easily. A failure of almost all other AF adjustment products and procedures (including my incredibly crude efforts in the two most recent User’s Guide Updates) is their inability to ensure exact parallel alignment. It is however, an absolute requirement for accurate and repeatable AF testing and and for making accurate and repeatable micro-adjustments. The standard DOF focus display ruler that ships with LensAlign MkII is 10.5 inches and offers a choice of 2 different display patterns, one on each side.
And here’s the very best news: the Lens Align MkII costs only a fraction of the original Lens Align Pro and–with the slightly longer ruler, and the new ruler patterns, it performs even better. You can order yours right now for only $79.95 plus shipping: ~$6/US or ~$13/INT via Priority Mail. Please be aware that the shipping fees may vary a bit depending on your location or when you order through the BAA On-Line Store. International shipping charges will also vary by country depending on additional fees for customs, VAT, duties, or fees depending on their laws, rules or policies.
You can send us a Paypal, call Jim at 863-692-0906, or purchase through the BAA On-Line store here.
Note: the Lens Align MkII (now with with Fusion) sells for $124.90, still only a fraction of the original Lens Align Pro and–with the slightly longer ruler and the new ruler patterns, it performs even better. You can order yours here. Fusion includes the amazing FocusTune software.
FocusTune quickly and accurately identifies the best AF fine-tune adjustment setting to match a given lens with the DSLR’s body. While virtually every high-end DSLR is equipped with micro fine-tuning adjustments, the manufacturers have left the users to determine the optimal fine-tuning for themselves. That’s why Michael Tapes Design originally created LensAlign. And now with the super high resolution cameras becoming so popular, FocusTune is the clear companion to get the finest detail from these remarkable cameras. Its highly accurate analysis capabilities can be used as both a standalone tool and in conjunction with LensAlign MkII, which offers additional functionality.
I am currently working on a Lanes Align/Focus Tune tutorial; be sure to subscribe to the blog for lots of great info.
Lens Align Tethered Testing Tutorial
Tethered testing, with the camera attached to a laptop via a four or five foot USB cable, is easy to do and convenient. Below I will teach you how to do it and how to make a few images to confirm your results.
You will need to find a spot where you can sit at your laptop with the lens pointed through an open door or window at the target (that is obviously outdoors). Even when working with shorter focal length lenses it is best to place the target outside so that the system has enough light to focus. Canon folks will need to install EOS Utility from the CD that came in the box with their camera. Nikon folks need to purchase Nikon Camera Control Pro 2 Software Full Version for Nikon DSLR Cameras or Breeze Systems’ NKRemote. Nikon folks can find info on several free programs for tethered shooting here.
Here is exactly how I do it with my Canon gear. I work in my new office with the laptop on my worktable desk. I set up the tripod with the 800mm lens and the Mark IV about 3 feet away with the lens pointing out the French doors. I make sure that I have only the central sensor active and that no surrounding points are enabled (C.Fn III: 8-0.) I set One-Shot AF. I work in Av mode at the wide open aperture, in this case, f/5.6. The rig is tethered to the laptop with a five foot USB cable (separate purchase required). I make sure that Live View/Movie func. set (on the second YELLOW menu) is set to Stills. While on the menu, make sure to set the AF Mode to Quick ModeI make sure that the (focusing) Beep (on the second RED menu) is On. I set the ISO high enough to give me a decent shutter speed to ensure that my final confirmation images are sharp. I set rear button focus (C.Fn IV: 1: 2). And I set the Drive Mode to Single Frame Advance.
I keep a spare Wimberely P-20 plate on the base plate of the Lens Align MKII. Either that or a Wimberley P-5 plate from the bottom of a camera body will work just fine. Next I grab any old tripod–a light one is fine and screw on my Giotto’s tiny ballhead (the Giottos MH 1302-655) which is ideal for the chore. (Any ballhead will do.) Note: the unit comes with a 1/4 20 threaded hole that requires a mounting plate with a 1/4 20 bolt. Having the LA MII on a small ballhead makes the alignment process (described below) as snap.
Now I take the tripod with the Lens Align MKII atop it and head through the French doors (making sure to open them first) out into the backyard. It is recommended that all lenses including telephoto lenses be tested at distances ranging from at least 25 times the focal length up to 50 times the focal length. The minimum of 25 times the focal length in mm works out to 8.2 feet per 100mm, or roughly 65 1/2 feet. You can either estimate the distance by walking it off or use a carpenter’s measuring tape. The reason for placing the Lens Align device at 25 or 50 times the focal length is that alignment errors made at the minimum focus distance will multiply at larger focus distances. The disadvantage of calibrating your lens at 50 times the focal length is that vibrations (especially if it is breezy or windy) when viewing the magnified image on the laptop might make it difficult to evaluate your results. Some folks feel that setting the rig up at twice the minimum focus distance works fine.
Camera Settings Review
For your calibration efforts it is–as above–imperative to check and make sure that you camera is set up properly for testing:
- Central Sensor AF point (selected manually) with no surrounding points enabled (C.Fn III: 8-0.)
- One-Shot AF
- Av mode at the wide open aperture
- Camera tethered to laptop 🙂
- Live View/Movie func. set (on the second YELLOW menu) is set to Stills
- On the same menu, the AF Mode needs to be set to Quick Mode
- (Focusing) Beep (on the second RED menu) is On.
- The ISO is set high enough to give me a decent shutter speed to ensure that my final confirmation images are sharp
- Rear button focus is set via C.Fn IV: 1: 2
- Drive Mode should be set to Single Frame Advance
True Parallel Alignment
The next step is to align the camera and lens so that the camera is perfectly parallel to the test target. As it turns out, this is–thanks to the brilliance of Michael Tapes and his ingenious design, quite simple to do. Before I open the doors and walk out to the prescribed distance, I point the lens roughly at the spot where the tripod will be set up. Then I walk off the 65 feet, place the tripod down, loosen the ballhead, and point the Lens Align at the lens. Then I set a bit of tension on the ball and out of habit, level the unit with the bubble level in my pocket. The I look through the TPA Rear Sighting Port’s Main Target on the back of the unit, center the lens barrel in the center of the viewing port, and tighten the ball. It is actually as easy as pie.
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This is the view from the back of the Lens Align Mark II. Thanks to Michael Tapes for the image.
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Then I return to the camera set up and aim the lens and adjust and tighten the the tripod head so that the central AF sensor is on the center of the focusing target on the left side of the Lens Align Mark II device. Then I hit the rear button to focus while looking through the viewfinder. Getting the central sensor to rest precisely on the center of the target once you let go of your rig is actually more difficult than it seems and will usually require several attempts.
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This image shows the central AF sensor illuminated in red right on the target as it should be.
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Once that is done and the tripod head is locked down, press the Set button on the back of the camera to activate Live View. Then press the magnifying button on the top right back of the camera once (5X) or twice (10X) to enlarge the image. Press the shutter button to engage Image Stabilization. As long as you have taken care and centered the lens in the Main Target from behind the device you should see the red target circle right in the middle of the hole in in the center of the focusing target. I have gotten it perfect every time. If you see parts of the white bullseye target and only a section of the red ring I would attempt to re-center the lens from behind the device rather than attempting to move the tripod…. When you are finished, hit the Set button again to get out of Live View.
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This Michael Tapes screen capture shows the red ring centered in the hole in the center of the focusing target.
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PC
Now it is time to get back to our laptops and get to work. First click on the desk-top icon for the Canon EOS Utility that you have downloaded and installed from the CD that came with your camera body. When the window on our left below opens click on Camera Settings/Remote Shooting. When the window on the right below opens click on Remote Live View Shooting. (Thanks to Peter Kes for the use of the two screen captures below.)
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Now press the Set Button to Activate Live view. Next defocus the image just a bit so that you can still see that the central sensor is on or near the center of the target. Then press the shutter button to engage IS and stabilize the image and hit the rear button to focus while you are holding the camera with the image relatively still on the back of the camera and the central sensor on or near the center of the test target. When the mirror comes back up you should see the central sensor light up red and should have heard the focus confirmation beep.
Once you have focused the image with IS engaged press the magnify button on the top right side of the camera once or twice and examine the image on the laptop. You will need to hit the right side of the joystick several times so that the white viewing window is centered over the ruler not the focusing target. You are looking for a view approximately as shown below.
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This is my 800 with the Mark IV alone with the AF Micro-adjustment set to zero as it is out of the box.
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As you can see, the lens at 0 micro-adjustment is pretty much right on. The 4s, the 8s, and the 12s in the center of the frame are pretty much of equal sharpness. Here is what I have not told you up till now and you had best read carefully: after you defocus slightly and then refocus after engaging IS and then examine the magnified results, make a mental note of the results and then repeat the test five or more times until you are satisfied that you are getting a consistent result. For whatever reason, it is likely that you will have one result that is out of kilter. But with practice and by following the methodology described above you will be able to get pretty darned consistent results.
To give you an idea of what you will see with a back-focused or front-focused camera lens combination I have intentionally created the two images below with the same gear.
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Here the Micro-adjustment is set to -10. As a result, the image is severely front focused. The numbers in front of the zero are much sharper then the numbers behind the zero. When I magnified this one to 10X the sharpest focus seemed to be on the small 14.
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Here the Micro-adjustment is set to +10. As a result, the image is severely back focused. The numbers behind the zero are much sharper then the numbers in front of it. As in the previous image the sharpest focus again seemed to be on the small 14 when I magnified this one to 10X.
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In addition to illustrating both front and back focus, we can glean valuable information from the two images and the settings immediately above. We saw that with the gear that I was testing the focus moved about 14 units with a ten unit change in the micro-adjustment. It follows that if you changed the micro-adjustment setting by a single unit that the focus would move about 1.4 units, or roughly 1 1/2 units. If you had a rig that was front focused with the 6 in front of the zero the sharpest digit, you would try setting the micro-adjustment to -4 because 4 X 1 1/2 = 6. After changing the micro-adjustment from 0 to -4 you would refocus about five times as detailed several times above. Then you would create an image by pressing the shutter button after you achieved a consistent result. The image will not be recorded on the compact flash card in your camera. It will be saved somewhere on your laptop; be sure to note where it is being saved. On my Windows 7 HP laptop the default folder for saving images is Arthur/My Pictures.
Here, adapted from my killer Mark IV User’s Guide are instructions for changing the Micro-adjustment values:
Go to C.Fn III-7. Press the Set button and then turn the thumb wheel to scroll down to “2-Adjust by lens” and hit the Set button again. Then press “Info;” the micro-adjustment window will appear. If you have never calibrated before, the arrow should be on zero. Turn the thumb wheel clockwise to adjust for front focus. Turn is counter-clockwise to adjust for back focus. Then be sure to press the “Set” button to apply the change.
You will need to Micro-adjust each lens with each camera that you own. You will also need to adjust each lens camera combo with the 1.4X teleconverter and with the 2x teleconverter if you own and use one. If you own more than one teleconverter, you will need to mark one for you big lens and one for your short lens and use it consistently with the lens that each was tested on. If you test with one TC and photograph with another, your sharpness will vary as each TC will require a different micro-adjustment.
Do not be fooled by the fact that my 800mm lens is right on at zero; it requires +7 with my #1 teleconverter. And my 400 DO requires +8 with my second Mark IV.
This thread will be a continuing resource and will be updated as questions come in. Please post your questions as Comments.
Thanks a stack to Peter Kes for helping me to get started with Lens Align. Thanks to former BPN member Arash Hazeghi for inspiring me to do this right and to teach others to do it properly. And finally thanks to Michael Tapes for Lens Align MKII.
I fully expect our stock of Lens Align Mark IIs to disappear almost instantly. If we are out of stock when you call please give us a day or two to get our next order.
Non-tethered Testing
To see a newer tutorial on non-tethered testing click here.
January 10th, 2011
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This is a JPEG made from the optimized master file that I created from the three Common Eider images posted least week. Read on the see why it represented the best of all worlds. The three images were created in the same 1/100 sec. with the tripod-mounted Canon 800mm f/5.6L IS lens, the 1.4X II TC, and the EOS-1D Mark IV. ISO 800. Evaluative metering +2/3 stop: 1/800 sec. at f/8 in Av mode.
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The Eider Hen Images/The Best of All Worlds
In the “Which is the Best? Keep two. Delete one. Why?” post here, folks did a great job with their comments. Thanks a stack to all who pitched in. I urge everyone to read the comments that accompany each post 🙂 When I first wrote this entry, my favorite image was A with B a close second. As it turns out reading your comments, revisiting the images, and re-thinking the whole nine yards proved that I was wrong on all counts; yes, you heard it here first, I was wrong on all counts.
With the bird swimming slightly away, the head in A was turned a bit too much back toward us. But the cleaner still water in front of the bird’s head in A was much nicer than the dark wavelets in B. With the bird swimming slightly away, B had the perfect head angle. But the dark wavelets and the drop of water on the bill were negatives. C is a strange one. With the bird swimming slightly away the pretty much parallel to the imaging sensor head angle is by-the-book perfect, but it simply does not work for me here as it gives the impression that it might actually be turned a bit away from us. But oh, that lovely drop in just the right place.
So what was I to do? I wound up (thanks to your comments…) liking Image B the best and used that as my base image. I painted a big Quick Mask of the calmer water in front of the bird in A, brought it into B on a layer, and used a Layer Mask to fine tune it. Then I cloned away the remaining dark wavelet right in front of the bird’s bill. Next I used a series of small Quick Masks to get rid of the drop of water on the bill. Lastly I painted another Quick Mask of the drop of water from C and brought that into B after removing yet another dark wavelet from below the sea duck’s bill. As I said, the best of all worlds. Thanks for your help.
I will now address a few specific comments.
Joerg asked, “Real question IMO: why does the brightness vary so much in a burst? Not sure you saw my BPN post about my (rented) 1DMkIV at Bosque showing frame-to-frame brightness variations. I think it was Jim Neiger suggesting that it may be due to a hanging shutter…
That might be possible, but do consider the following: when working in an automatic mode such as Av as I was for this series of images, even though the shutter speed shows as the same (1/800 sec.) for each image, it is actually an approximation. Because of tiny differences in framing one image might have been made at 1/720 sec. while another was made at 1/880 sec. resulting in small differences in tonality.
Johan asked, “Will you be at the NANPA Summit in March, Mr. Morris? I’ve received a High School Scholarship to attend, and it’d be cool to meet you.”
Actually, after a decade of trying to understand, I have had it with the favoritism, the cliques, and the political game-playing that rule NANPA. I have long supported both the high school and college scholarship programs with my time and money, and with the donation of books and large discount certificates for various IPTs. I have been privileged over the years to have worked with several high school groups on field trips and know for sure that I changed at least one life, that of Tyler Evert. I was offered a keynote presentation at the Charlotte Summit only because slated incoming president, my friend and colleague Darrel Gulin, stood before the board and said, “Arthur Morris is good for NANPA. If he is not offered a keynote in Charlotte I will not accept the presidency.” I got a standing ovation from 700 folks and I will always remember it as one of the great highlights of my career.
Since then I have submitted a proposal to speak almost every year. I have asked to be considered as a presenter at the various NANPA regional conferences. And I have shared my concerns with the past few NANPA boards. I was always told that the board valued the appearance of big name pros like myself, but when it came to speaking again I have been and still am personna non grata. Several years ago I was honored as a NANPA fellow, and at last year’s Forum the board went so far as to honor me with a NANPA Service Award. But my requests to speak were consistently either turned down or ignored. Have a great time at Summit.
Be sure to seek out and find the various board and program committee members and thank them for my absence. I do hope that our paths cross somewhere down the line. Say “Hi” to Ray Klass and the rest of this year’s scholarship students for me. Hey, when you have a chance, shoot me an e-mail.
Becky Field nailed the bonus question in the first comment (and thus spoiled my fun) when she answered correctly: “Bonus: you’re missing 99% of action if shooting 10 frames per second at 1/1000th of a sec.” I am, however, pretty sure that she learned that on the San Diego IPT last year….. Try asking that one at your camera club meeting; most folks will not have a clue 🙂
A 45-Point AF Question Answered
In a comment at yesterday’s “45-Point AF for Flight on the Hooptie Deux” post here, Jeff asked:
“Are you talking about all 45 points vs. picking a single point or are you using C. Fn. III-8, selection 3? What is the difference?”
I was talking about activating all 45 points by moving the active AF point manually to the edge of the array so that all of the outer points light up. (I used to call that the “ring of fire.”)
The difference between that and setting C. Fn. III-8-3 is that with C. Fn. III-8-3 you would first select a single point ; the setting would tell the system to utilize the 45 “surrounding” points if need be.
Here is an excerpt from the Mark IV User’s Guide that should help:
C. Fn. III-8 (AF expansion with selected point). C. Fn. III-8-1, 8-2, and 8-3 can be set to activate additional focusing points that surround the manually selected focusing point. 8-1 allows the AF system to utilize the AF point on either side of the active point, 8-2 allows it to use any of the immediate surrounding points. And 8-3 activates allows the AF system to use any one of the 45 AF points to continue to focus track.
For photographing birds in flight most folks either stick with the default setting so that they are using only the selected sensor; this should yield pinpoint focusing accuracy. Others like setting 8-1 as it makes it a bit easier to track the subject. You might wish to experiment with all of the choices in various situations here and see how you do….
Shopper’s Guide
Below is a list of the gear that I used to create the images above. Thanks a stack to all who have used the Shopper’s Guide links to purchase their gear as a thank you for all the free information that we bring you on the Blog and in the Bulletins.
Canon 800mm f/5.L IS lens Right now this is my all time favorite super-telephoto lens.
Canon EOS-1D Mark IV professional digital camera body And this is the very best professional digital camera body that I have even used.
And from the BAA On-line Store:
Gitzo 3530 LS Tripod This one will last you a lifetime.
Mongoose M3.6 Tripod Head Right now this is the best tripod head around for use with lenses that weigh less than 9 pounds. For heavier lenses, check out the Wimberley V2 head.
Double Bubble Level You will find one in my camera’s hot shoe whenever I am not using flash.
Delkin 32gb e-Film Pro Compact Flash Card Fast and dependable.
If you are considering the purchase of a major piece of photographic gear be it a new camera, a long lens, a tripod or a head, or some accessories be sure to check out our complete Shopper’s Guide.
January 9th, 2011
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This Black Vulture flight image was created with the tripod-mounted Canon 800mm f/5.6L IS lens and the EOS-1D Mark IV. ISO 400. Evaluative metering +2/3 off the blue sky: 1/1600 at f/8 set manually.
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45-Point on the Hooptie Deux
Clemens van der Werf and I joined James Shadle yesterday for a morning of photography on James’ customized pontoon boat out at Alafia Banks in Tampa Bay. With the wind from the west northwest and Black Vultures flying by us from left to right with the wind at their backs, they were moving along quite quickly. I could not keep the central sensor (usually best for flight) on the birds so I went to 45 point AF. Below is a (BreezeBrowser) screen capture showing the focus points. Using 45-point makes it much easier to maintain focus when try to track fast or erratically flying birds. I love either the wings down position (as in this image) or the wings up position.
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Even though only the outer ring of focus points is illuminated when you are using 45-Point with a Canon pro body all of the focusing sensors are active.
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I did not have good results using 45-Point AF for flight photography with the Canon EOS-1D Mark III. (Note: Robert O’Toole did the few times that he used the MIII.) I have done quite well with 45-point with my two Mark IV bodies with flight especially in sunny conditions on clear days. Canon has always advised acquiring focus with the central sensor when using 45-Point, i.e., with the bird centered in the middle of the array of AF sensors, but I have always felt that 45-point acquired better when the bird was more on the edge of the AF array (as depicted in the screen capture above). In this instance however I did acquire focus with the bird in the approximate center of the AF array. I will use the frame before that illustrates this point well in the next BAA Bulletin (that I hope to send tomorrow).
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This pleasing blur was created with the 70-200mm f/2.8L IS II lens with the 2X II TC (handheld at 215mm) and the EOS-1D Mark IV. ISO 100. Evaluative metering +2 stops: 1/13 sec. at f/4 in Tv mode. You can learn a ton about creating pleasing blurs including why it is best to work in Tv mode when doing so in A Guide to Pleasing Blurs by Denise Ippolito and yours truly.
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I almost always use 45-Point when photographing flocks of birds in flight whether I am doing pleasing blurs of trying to create sharp images. If you use a single sensor there is a chance that the sensor my see through the flock and try to focus on the background (though this is not likely with sky backgrounds it is possible).
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This is a a cropped (BreezeBrowser) screen capture that again shows the focus points.
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If you compare the screen capture with the JPEG that represents the optimized image file you will note the I cropped the image, boosted the color and contrast, and cleaned up the image by eliminated a few telephone poles and several birds and groups of birds from the frame edges. You can learn to do all of that and tons more quickly and easily in our Digital Basics File (a PDF sent via e-mail; it will be the best $20 you ever spent on improving your Photoshop skills and your digital workflow).
Shopper’s Guide
Below is a list of the gear that I used to create the images above. Thanks a stack to all who have used the Shopper’s Guide links to purchase their gear as a thank you for all the free information that we bring you on the Blog and in the Bulletins.
Canon 800mm f/5.L IS lens Right now this is my all time favorite super-telephoto lens.
Canon 70-200mm f/2.8L IS II lens Man, I am loving this lens with the 2x on my shoulder.
Canon EF Teleconverter 2X II This 2X is currently being replaced by the EF 2X III TC.
Canon EOS-1D Mark IV professional digital camera body And this is the very best professional digital camera body that I have even used.
And from the BAA On-line Store:
Gitzo 3530 LS Tripod This one will last you a lifetime.
Mongoose M3.6 Tripod Head Right now this is the best tripod head around for use with lenses that weigh less than 9 pounds. For heavier lenses, check out the Wimberley V2 head.
Double Bubble Level You will find one in my camera’s hot shoe whenever I am not using flash.
Delkin 32gb e-Film Pro Compact Flash Card Fast and dependable.
If you are considering the purchase of a major piece of photographic gear be it a new camera, a long lens, a tripod or a head, or some accessories be sure to check out our complete Shopper’s Guide.
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