Stick Marsh was better than expected. Just before sunrise there were about 20 Roseate Spoonbills on the North Rookery Island. Most of those birds flew off at about 7:15am. Soon thereafter, there were spoonies flying in and out until about 8:15am. The birds were displaying, courting, and pulling leaves (but not sticks or branches). They seemed not to be disturbed at all by the big construction project. All in all, I would say that things are looking good for a successful breeding season. I finally heard from FWC and will share some good info when I get my laptop back. I worked on the tripod at 1200mm and likely got at least one really good flight image.
Today is Thursday 3 February. The forecast for this morning is for clear skies with a southeast breeze. I will be heading down to the lake early, keeping all of my images on a single card until I am back in business. The data recovery is on-going. I learned yesterday that my MacBook Pro will almost surely need to be repaired or replaced. If you need to get in touch with me before I get my laptop back and running, please shoot an e-mail to staffbaa@att.net with the “ATTN: artie” as the Subject Line. Or try me on my cell at 863-221-2372. Wherever you are, and whatever you are doing, I hope that you too have a great day. This blog post took about ninety minutes to prepare and makes 82 days in a row with a new one.
Please remember that you can find some great photo accessories (and necessities, like surf booties!) on Amazon by clicking on the Stuff tab on the orange/yellow menu bar above. On a related note, it would be extremely helpful if blog-folks who, like me, spend too much money on Amazon, would get in the habit of clicking on the Amazon logo link on the right side of each blog post when they shop online. As you might expect, doing so will not cost you a single penny, but would be appreciated tremendously by yours truly. And doing so works seamlessly with your Amazon Prime account.
Please remember that if an item — a Delkin flash card, or a tripod head — for example, that is available from B&H and/or Bedfords, is also available in the BAA Online Store, it would be great, and greatly appreciated, if you would opt to purchase from us. We will match any price. Please remember also to use my B&H affiliate links or to earn 3% cash back at Bedfords by using the BIRDSASART discount code at checkout for your major gear purchases. Doing either often earns you free guides and/or discounts. And always earns my great appreciation.
Songs About Love #1
Which song do you like best, Bette Midler’s The Rose?
Songs About Love #2
Or John Denver’s Perhaps Love (with Placido Domingo)?
Tracking: Spot S AF-C with Bird-Eye/Face Detection performed very well in a difficult situation. Click on the image to enjoy the high-res version.
Image #2: Brown Pelican Pacific-race adult face portrait
My Favorite
The following appeared in the Clean, Tight, Graphic (and Abstract) blog post here:
I’ve made many hundreds of images like the one above over the past decade, but I’d never made one of a bird in the complete shade. Two things make this image very special to me. If you think that you know what they are, please leave a comment.
Like me, BPN member Kevin Hice liked Image #2 the best. He agreed that the matte gray background was superb. I am not sure if the background was water or the far cliff wall. In addition, I loved the unique combination of the single white feather and the smaller single gray feather on the top of the bird’s head.
This image was created on 19 January 2022. Standing at full height, I used the no-longer-available Induro GIT 304L/Levered-Clamp FlexShooter Pro-mounted Sony FE 600mm f/4 GM OSS lens and The One, the Sony Alpha 1 Mirrorless Digital Camera). IS 400. The exposure was determined via Zebras with ISO on the rear wheel: 1/2500 sec. at f/4 (wide open) in Manual mode. AWB at 8:52:04am on a mostly sunny morning.
Tracking: upper center Zone AF-C performed very well. Be sure to click on the image to enjoy a higher-res version.
Image #3: Brown Pelican vertical front-end flight take-off
Head Angle (Very) Fine Point
In the When Something Unexpected Happens blog post here, I wrote, with regards to the image above, Only one tiny thing bugs me about this image and keeps it from being perfect. If you think that you know what it is, please leave a comment.
Though the pelican’s head is pretty much square to the sensor, i.e., to the back of the camera, it is slightly turned away from the line of its body. For me, that makes it a poor head angle.
To better explain. The bird’s body in flight is angled slightly toward me. Imagine yourself in a helicopter well above the bird. Now draw a line from the center of the bird’s tail to the top of its head. In a perfect world, the tip of the bill would be on the same line. It is however, turned slightly away. Yes, that is a very fine point, but it bugged me. What was the cause? The wind was from the northeast and that determined the light path as it lifted off into the breeze. The bird, however, was just beginning to turn left heading for the feeding spree to the southwest … So it goes.
Re-writing for Clarity
Thanks to David Policansky (AKA Doctor Fish)
In the Understanding Depth-of-Field with Telephoto Lenses blog post here, I wrote:
If you are at a given aperture and focal length the d-o-f will be identical only if and when the subject is the same size in the frame. So if you are at 400mm and you get twice as close to the bird, the d-o-f will be identical; only the angle of view will change. Your frame will include much more background at the shorter focal length; the image will look totally different, but the degree of sharpness of the background will be identical.
If you are photographing a given bird in a given situation with the same rig at the same aperture and you zoom out, d-o-f will increase dramatically according to the laws of optics as we saw above. And the same is true if you move away from the subject; d-o-f is a function of the distance to the subject: the closer you are, the less the d-o-f. And the farther away you are, the greater the d-o-f.
David Policansky/February 1, 2022 at 10:57am
Artie: I am having a hard time understanding this from you. Is there another way to say it? “If you are at a given aperture and focal length the d-o-f will be identical only if and when the subject is the same size in the frame. So if you are at 400mm and you get twice as close to the bird, the d-o-f will be identical; only the angle of view will change. Your frame will include much more background at the shorter focal length; the image will look totally different, but the degree of sharpness of the background will be identical.”
Arthur Morris/BIRDS AS ART: February 1, 2022 at 8:48pm
Hey David, I see that the problem is with some poor writing by me. I need to hit the sack and will get back to you with a re-write soon.
with love, artie
Arthur Morris/BIRDS AS ART/February 2, 2022 at 6:34am
Hey David, Is this any better:
If you are at a given aperture and work at two different focal lengths, the d-o-f will be identical if and only if the subject is the exact same size in the frame. If you are at 400mm and you get twice as close to the bird working at 200mm, the d-o-f will be identical.
The angle of view, however, will change. Your frame will include much more background at the shorter focal length; being a lot wider, the image will look totally different, but the degree of sharpness of the background will be identical.
LMK if that works and I will go back and change the text in the blog post. If not, call me this afternoon 🙂
thanks with love, artie
David Policansky/February 2, 2022 at 3:16pm
Thanks, Artie. That’s clear, but as you would say, only 100%. 🙂 David
Typos
With all blog posts, feel free to e-mail or to leave a comment regarding any typos or errors.
I headed out for a short session on Tuesday morning. I photographed the usual ILE suspects: Cattle Egret, Turkey Vulture, and Sandhill Crane. I am pretty sure that I got one very nice crane image. With no laptop, I will not know for sure for at least a while. I spoke to the data recovery spokes late on Tuesday but there was not much news. There is a chance of recovering photos from the laptop. I gave them permission to expedite the process. I should learn more tomorrow. If you need to get in touch with me before I get my laptop back, please shoot an e-mail to staffbaa@att.net with the “ATTN: artie” as the Subject Line. Or try me on my cell at 863-221-2372.
Today is Wednesday 2 February 2022. The forecast for this morning is for mostly sunny with an east wind. I will likely be heading to Stick Marsh early for a look around. Wherever you are, and whatever you are doing, I hope that you too have a great day. This blog post took about two hours to prepare and makes 82 days in a row with a new one.
If you use a vertical (battery) grip on your camera, you are invited to leave a comment letting us know which camera body and sharing your thoughts on the good and the bad. If not, leave a comment and let us know why not.
Image courtesy of and copyright 2022: Dieter J. Schaefer
artie using the vertical grip at La Jolla, CA
The Vertical Grip in Action
For the most part, I used the vertical grip when I am using the big lens on a tripod as seen above. When hand holding, I use my second a1, the one without the vertical grip.
Note that you cannot see the Sony 70-200 f/2.8 II lens with the 1.4X TC and an a1 hanging on my right shoulder via a Black Rapid Curve Breathe Camera Strap. Note also the advanced sharpness technique that I am using by checking out the position of my left forearm and the positioning of the fingers on my left hand.
Upper Center Zone Continuous AF was active at the moment of exposure and nailed focus on the eye.
Image #1: Wood Stork head and neck portrait
Click on the image to see a larger, sharper version.
Coming to Grips with Vertical Grips
Most Canon and Nikon pro bodies have built in vertical grips that often accommodate powerful batteries that are larger in size than those used with the prosumer model camera bodies. Examples of those would be the Canon 5D Mark IV and the Nikon D-850. Most mirrorless camera bodies do not have vertical grips. Those would include all of the high end Sony and Canon bodies. The exception would be the new Nikon Z9 that has a built-in vertical grip.
Wide AF-C with Bird-Eye/Face Detection performed perfectly.
Image #2: Little Blue Heron, fresh juvenile on rock
The Two Main Advantages of Vertical Grips
1- Vertical grips allow users to rotate the camera to vertical either when hand holding or on a tripod without having to twist their wrists by offering the same set of controls they would enjoy when shooting horizontally. Good ones offer a perfect duplicate of the button and dials on the top right of the camera body (that match the controls that you have at hand — or at finger — when the camera is held horizontally). Poorly designed vertical grips often leave folks frustrated when the configuration and/or the size of the buttons do not quite match up with the horizontal controls …
Without a vertical grip, users most often will twist their wrists 90 degrees counter-clockwise; their right index finger never leaves the shutter button. Some folks choose to rotate their wrists clockwise while still keeping their trigger finger on the shutter button. That always seemed quite awkward to me when hand holding. On a tripod, it is a reasonable alternative. If you are shooting with, slightly behind, and in close proximity to another photographer who is shooting vertically, their elbow often be in your shot. If they are on a tripod, you might request that they rotate their lens in a clockwise rather than in a counter-clockwise direction. No more elbow. Having done this on several occasions, I am always surprised when the other photographer invariably responds. “I never thought of doing it that way.”
2- Most vertical grips allow for the use of two batteries, or for the use of a single, larger, more powerful battery. I am pretty sure that the performance of the camera body does not improve with more or larger batteries. The big advantage on the battery side of things with a vertical grip is that you do not have to carry an extra battery or stop to change batteries while the action is hot.
This image was created on 15 January 2022, my first morning in La Jolla. Standing at full height on the sidewalk, I used the no-longer-available Induro GIT 304L/Levered-Clamp FlexShooter Pro-mounted Sony FE 600mm f/4 GM OSS lens and The One, the Sony Alpha 1 Mirrorless Digital Camera). IS 640. The exposure was determined via Zebras with ISO on the rear wheel: 1/320 sec. at f/4 (wide open) in Manual mode. AWB at 8:45:17am on a mostly sunny morning.
Tracking: Spot S AF-C performed very well. Be sure to click on the image to enjoy a higher-res version.
Image #2: Brown Pelican shaking off rain
The Disadvantage of All Vertical Grips
The biggest disadvantage that comes with using a battery grip is that they make your camera heavier. When I was using two 5D Mark IV bodies or two Nikon D850 bodies, I’d always have a grip on one body but not the other. Nearly all the time I would go with the gripped body when using a big lens on a tripod, and the body without the grip when hand holding an intermediate telephoto lens or a telephoto zoom lens for the obvious reason: keeping my hand held rig as light as possible.
When I was using the Sony a7R iii, the a7R iv, the a9, or the a9 II, I never used the battery grip. With my Sony Alpha 1 bodies, I purchased one Sony VG-C4EM Vertical Grip and use the gripped body almost exclusively when I am using the big lens (the 600mm f/4 GM) on the tripod.
This image was created on 19 January 2022. Standing at full height, I used the no-longer-available Induro GIT 304L/Levered-Clamp FlexShooter Pro-mounted Sony FE 600mm f/4 GM OSS lens and The One, the Sony Alpha 1 Mirrorless Digital Camera). IS 400. The exposure was determined via Zebras with ISO on the rear wheel: 1/2500 sec. at f/4 (wide open) in Manual mode. AWB at 8:52:04am on a mostly sunny morning.
Tracking: upper center Zone AF-C performed very well. Be sure to click on the image to enjoy a higher-res version.
Image #1: Brown Pelican vertical front-end flight take-off
The Disadvantages of the Sony VG-C4EM Vertical Grip
While looking for images to illustrate this blog post, I was shocked at how difficult it was for me to find vertical photographs; it seemed as if 98% of my images were horizontals. Anyhoo, I have two problems with the Sony VG-C4EM Vertical Grip:
#1: The positioning and sizes of the buttons and dials on the vertical grip are slightly different than those on the camera body when it is held horizontally. Thus, I need to look at the controls when I need to make changes. Working with the camera in horizontal format, I never need to look at the back of the camera. My biggest problem with the grip for the a1, however, is that it is somewhere between very difficult and almost impossible to reach the Thumb Wheel (AKA the Control Dial) on the back of the camera.
#2: This next issue is unique to those using the 600mm f/4 GM lens (and probably the 400mm f/2.8 GM lens as well). The grip increases the torque on the lens when you are working vertically. The big Sony GM lenses rotate so smoothly in the tripod collars that when you rotate the camera and the lens counter-clockwise to get to vertical, the lens will tend to rotate clockwise as the torque from the weight of the grip is greater than the force of the friction. It is necessary to tighten the tripod collar a bit to keep the lens from turning CW. If you level the rig with the electronic level and let go, the lens will spin a bit. When you tighten the tripod collar to keep the lens square to the world, it is more difficult to get back to horizontal format in a hurry when you need to.
SONY and artie
Switching to SONY, first with the a9 and the a9 II, and then to the remarkable a1, has enabled me (and others, like Mike De Rosa as seen a while ago in the blog post here), to create images of birds in flight and in action that I could never even dreamed of when using Canon for 33 years, and then Nikon for more than two. Most of the time I am using one of two AF methods that together, cover about 99% of the commonly-encountered bird photography situations. At present, I am experimenting beyond those … Learn more by joining the group! (I’ve recently switched to two other AF Methods!)
From long-time group member Craig Elson who has helped me often and immensely by answering some tough a1 questions, via e-mail
Artie, Thanks so much for consolidating and re-organizing all of the threads. I can only imagine how helpful this will be to someone opening the box on their new a1, not to mention your CAMSETA2.DAT file. And I think that was the first, and likely the last, time, that I will be referred to as “the estimable!”
Larry Master via e-mail:
I bought an a1 and associated lenses a year ago. I love it, esp. with the 200-600 w/1.4X TC, as my standard set-up. I use all of Artie Morris’ settings, causing almost all images, esp. flight shots, to be razor sharp on the eye. And exposure is easily nailed using the control wheel to dial the ISO. I have never had such a great bird photography camera!
From Long-ago IPT veteran Keith Kennedy via e-mail
Absolutely great information. I am calling Jim in a few minutes to order a couple of Delkin 128GB UHS-II cards. Your timely email has saved me a ton of money! Many thanks
In the same vein, via e-mail from John LeClair
Well, e-mail #21 alone was worth the price of admission!
From Pamela Viale, after receiving artie’s a1 settings along with detailed instructions on how to copy them to her SONY a1 via e-mail
This e-mail group has been an incredible boon to me! Thank you so much!
From Joe Barranco via e-Mail
Thanks for your great ideas on the A1 set up. I have been getting MANY more keepers doing things your way!
From Barbara White via e-Mail
Wow, I just gotta say – I learn so much from the SONY Alpha a1 Set-up and Info group! My camera is on my desk, and I’m always picking it up and changing something that I’ve read about in the e-mails.
Thanks, Barbara
From Janet Horton via e-Mail
Hi Artie, Mystery solved. Yes, I was able to replicate what you did. I forgot that you have to set self-timer using the upper dial. I am used to that being a MENU selection.
Thanks much, Janet
SONY Alpha a1 Set-up and Info Group
The SONY Alpha a1 Set-up and Info Group is going great guns as more and more folks chime in with thoughtful questions and experience-based answers. As the a1 is becoming more readily available, more and more folks are getting their hands on this amazing body. Last week, two folks in the group ordered a third a1! I am envious. The group is now up to an astounding 104 lucky and blessed folks. Early on, we discussed the myriad AF options. I gave my opinion as to the best one for flight and general bird photography. The best news is that all who wish, can request an e-mail that includes a .DAT file with my a1 settings on it, and explicit directions on how to load my settings onto your a1; talk about convenience! I am now offering a .DAT file compatible with firmware update 1.20. I finally finished the consolidated Sony a1 CAMSETA2 INFO & GUIDE and distributed it yesterday. New a1 folks will now receive three e-mails instead of the previous 28! It is a lot easier on me and is an incredible resource for folks new to the a1.
All who purchased their Alpha a1 bodies via a BAA affiliate link will receive a free subscription to the Sony Alpha a1 Set-Up and Info Updates group after shooting me their receipts via e-mail. (Note: it may take me several days to confirm B&H orders.) This same service may be purchased by anyone with an a1 body via a $150.00 PayPal sent to birdsasart@verizon.net indicating payment for Alpha a1 Info & Updates. Alternatively, folks can call Jim weekdays at 1-863-692-0906 to pay via credit card. New members will receive composite e-mails that summarize all previous discussions.
Typos
With all blog posts, feel free to e-mail or to leave a comment regarding any typos or errors.
My MacBook Pro (and the almost surely messed-up back-up drive) are on the way to the data recovery outfit in California by Fed-Ex Overnight Priority. I should find something out late today or early on Wednesday. My fingers still crossed. I will spare you the details when I learn more.
If you need to get in touch with me before I get my laptop back, please shoot an e-mail to staffbaa@att.net with the “ATTN: artie” as the Subject Line. Or try me on my cell at 863-221-2372.
Today is Tuesday February 1 2022. It is 10 degrees warmer than it was yesterday with clear skies and little wind. Though I have no place to put my images right now, I will head down to the lake by 7:30am. Wherever you are, and whatever you are doing, I hope that you too have a great day. This blog post took about ninety minutes to prepare and makes 81 days in a row with a new one.
Please remember that you can find some great photo accessories (and necessities, like surf booties!) on Amazon by clicking on the Stuff tab on the orange/yellow menu bar above. On a related note, it would be extremely helpful if blog-folks who, like me, spend too much money on Amazon, would get in the habit of clicking on the Amazon logo link on the right side of each blog post when they shop online. As you might expect, doing so will not cost you a single penny, but would be appreciated tremendously by yours truly. And doing so works seamlessly with your Amazon Prime account.
Please remember that if an item — a Delkin flash card, or a tripod head — for example, that is available from B&H and/or Bedfords, is also available in the BAA Online Store, it would be great, and greatly appreciated, if you would opt to purchase from us. We will match any price. Please remember also to use my B&H affiliate links or to earn 3% cash back at Bedfords by using the BIRDSASART discount code at checkout for your major gear purchases. Doing either often earns you free guides and/or discounts. And always earns my great appreciation.
Sony Alpha 1 Bodies in Stock at Bedfords/free card offer!
Steve Elkins of Bedfords let me know recently that he had several Sony a1 bodies in stock. If one of them has your name on it, please click here and be sure to enter the BIRDSASART coupon code check the box for free shipping to enjoy free Second Day Air Fed-Ex. Right now, in lieu of the 3% credit refunded to the card you used for your purchase, you will receive a Sony 160GB CFexpress Type A TOUGH Memory Card, a $399.99 value!
Brand New and As-Good-As-Ever Bedfords BAA Discount Policy
Folks who have fallen in love with Bedfords can now use the BIRDSASART coupon code at checkout to enjoy a post-purchase, 3% off-statement credit (excluding taxes and shipping charges) on orders paid with a credit card. The 3% credit will be refunded to the card you used for your purchase. Be sure, also, to check the box for free shipping to enjoy free Second Day Air Fed-Ex. This offer does not apply to purchases of Classes, Gift Cards, or to any prior purchases.
Money Saving Reminder
Many have learned that if you need a hot photo item that is out of stock at B&H and would like to enjoy getting 3% back on your credit card along with free 2nd Day Air Fed-Ex Air shipping, your best bet is to click here, place an order with Bedfords, and enter the coupon code BIRDSASART at checkout. If an item is out of stock, contact Steve Elkins via e-mail or on his cell phone at (479) 381-2592 (Central time). Be sure to mention the BIRDSASART coupon code and check the box for Free Shipping. That will automatically upgrade to free 2nd Day Air Fed-Ex. Steve has been great at getting folks the hot items that are out of stock at B&H and everywhere else. The waitlists at the big stores can be a year or longer for the hard to get items. Steve will surely get you your gear long before that. For the past year, he has been helping BAA Blog folks get their hands on items like the SONY a 1, the SONY 200-600 G OSS lens, the Canon EOS R5, the Canon RF 100-500mm lens, and the Nikon 500mm PF. Steve is personable, helpful, and eager to please.
Important Note
As an Amazon Associate, I earn a small percentage when you purchase from Amazon after using any of the Amazon links on the blog (including the logo-link immediately above). My link works with Amazon Prime and using it will not cost you a single cent. Huge thanks, BTW 🙂
Please Remember Also
Please, if you enjoy and learn from the blog, remember to use one of my two affiliate programs when purchasing new gear. Doing so just might make it possible for me to avoid having to try to get a job as a Walmart greeter and will not cost you a single penny more. And if you use Bedfords and remember to enter the BIRDSASART code at checkout, you will (still!) save 3% on every order and enjoy free second-day air shipping. In these crazy times — I lost about fifty thousand dollars in income due to COVID 19 — remembering to use my B&H link or to shop at Bedfords will help me out a ton and be greatly appreciated. Overseas folks who cannot order from the US because of import fees, duties, and taxes, are invited to help out by clicking here to leave a blog thank you gift if they see fit.
Gear Questions and Advice
Too many folks attending BAA IPTs and dozens of photographers whom I see in the field and on BPN, are–out of ignorance–using the wrong gear, especially when it comes to tripods and more especially, tripod heads… Please know that I am always glad to answer your gear questions via e-mail. If you are desperate, you can try me on my cell at 863-221-2372. Please leave a message and shoot me a text if I do not pick up.
Sony FE 70-200mm f/2.8 GM OSS Lens
BIRDS AS ART Record Low Price
Good friend and multiple IPT veteran Mark Hardymon is offering a Sony FE 70-200mm f/2.8 GM OSS lens in near-mint condition for the BAA record-low price of $1,348.00. The sale includes the front and rear lens caps, the factory soft case, the strap, the original box, the manuals, and insured ground shipping via major courier to lower 48 U.S. addresses only. Your item will not ship until your check clears unless other arrangements are made.
The versatile 70-200mm f/2.8 lenses have long been big favorites of many nature photographers. They are great for landscapes. I have used this lens with Canon and Nikon and SONY. I used my Canon version to photograph granddaughter Maya’s dance recitals and to create bird-scapes and pre-dawn blast-off blurs at Bosque del Apache NWR in New Mexico. They are fast and sharp and have 1,000 uses. The 70-200 f/2.8 lenses are a specialty lens for bird photographers. Like the bad little child, when they are good, they are really, really good! I’ve used mine mostly for flight photography at point blank range where their performance is unmatched, especially in low light. I’ve killed with these lenses on the gannet boat in the UK, in Homer for eagles, for pre-dawn and blizzard blast-offs at Bosque, and at Merritt Island on single birds from huge feeding sprees right next to the road.
This super-fast lens weighs only 3.26 pounds and is easily hand holdable by just about everyone. As it sells new right now for $2,298.00, you can save a cool $800.00 by grabbing mark’s lens asap. artie
ps: To see what the 70-200 zoom lenses can do, see below, and also see the images in the blog post here. artie
Tracking: Spot S AF/C with Bird-Eye/Face Detection performed perfectly. Click on the image to enjoy a high-res version.
Image #1: Brown Pelican sitting on dirt ridge on cliff
The Consensus Favorite
In the Eight Seconds Later and 165mm Wider blog post here, I posted the image above and the image below. Everyone who commented preferred the large-in-the-frame pelican image above to the habitat shot of the same bird below. Several folks trashed Image #2:
With the small in frame (subject), the bird seems to be lost.
#1 because I want to see the bird, not a busy, out-of-focus environmental shot.
#1, for the exact same reasons as the previous poster.
I actually liked Image #2 a lot, for several reasons. It helps to tell the whole story. It gives viewers a good idea of the setting. It gives the viewer an idea of the distance from the subject to the background. It shows the great versatility of all 70-200mm lenses. I thought that the o-o-f birds on the far wall provided an interesting background, and did not find the background very distracting at all. Lastly, when presented with Image #1 above, I saw the opportunity to teach a good lesson on depth-of-field, a topic that many bird photographers have serious misconceptions about.
Do understand that I respect the thoughts of the folks who did not like Image #2, and as always, am glad that they posted a comment. Above I am just sharing my two cents on the image.
Tracking: Spot S AF/C with Bird-Eye/Face Detection performed perfectly. Click on the image to enjoy a high-res version.
Image #2: Brown Pelican sitting on dirt ridge on cliff/bird-scape
Trying Yet Again to Explain the Relationship Between Depth of Field and Focal Length
In the Eight Seconds Later and 165mm Wider blog post here, I wrote:
Though I was standing in just about the same spot when I created both images, why are the birds in the background so much more sharply defined in Image #2 than in Image #1?
The question generated a series of comments (in part, below):
Adam: January 28, 2022 at 10:05am
To your question about DOF, the answer is that assuming you didn’t change the distance to the subject or aperture, the absolute DOF remains the same. The apparent DOF appears greater because you are zoomed out and smaller images appear sharper because they are more numerous and contrast is more apparent. However, if you were to enlarge/crop the second image to match the first image, the background would appear nearly the same.
Arthur Morris/BIRDS AS ART: January 28, 2022 at 2:34 pm
Thanks for commenting, Adam. You wrote, in part:
“To your question about DOF, the answer is that assuming you didn’t change the distance to the subject or aperture, the absolute DOF remains the same”
That would be true if and only if the size of the subject in the frame was the same. Cropping will not get you there. You are missing something important 🙂 with love, artie
Adam: January 28, 2022 at 4:24pm
Yes, how could I forget focal length? It must have been Covid-brain?
Next up was good friend and a many multiple IPT veteran John Dupps: January 28, 2022 at 3:49pm
You changed the focal length so the depth-of-field changed.
Morris/BIRDS AS ART: January 28, 2022 at 3:51pm
Hi John, I am glad that someone has been paying attention :).
with love, artie
John is of course, correct. Standing in roughly the same spot, the d-o-f increased dramatically. How dramatically? With a full frame camera body and an aperture of f/4, and assuming that I was about 10 feet from the subject, the d-o-f behind the bird for image #1 was about .48 inches. From the same spot, zooming out from 280mm to 115mm, the d-o-f behind the bird increased to 6.36 inches. Thus, the d-o-f increased by a factor of 13.25. And that explains why the birds on the far wall were more sharply defined than the few birds in the background in Image #1.
Some suggested that they might have liked Image #2 better had the birds on the far wall been in sharp focus. That shows a complete lack of understanding of d-o-f with telephoto lenses. The smallest aperture available with the gear in question is f/32. Going to f/32 would have required a much higher ISO along with a tripod and a much slower shutter speed. But here is the bigger problem: the far limit of d-o-f would have been about 12.7 feet, but the wall behind the birds was well more than 150 feet away. As they say frequently in Japan, “Not possible!”
The data above is from the excellent PhotoPills website here.
The Main Lesson
If you are at a given aperture and work at two different focal lengths, the d-o-f will be identical if and only if the subject is the exact same size in the frame. If you are at 400mm and you get twice as close to the bird working at 200mm, the d-o-f will be identical.
The angle of view, however, will change. Your frame will include much more background at the shorter focal length; being a lot wider, the image will look totally different, but the degree of sharpness of the background will be identical..
Related Telephoto Depth-of-Field Lessons
Probably 90% or more of my bird photography is done at the wide open aperture. Why? I love those creamy, dreamy backgrounds. Consider the following advice:
1- Unless you can verbalize a specific reason for stopping down to a smaller aperture, shoot wide open.
2- That said, understand that when you wish to create those smooth backgrounds, the distance from the subject to the background is at least as important as the f/stop.
3- Since depth-of-field is a function of the distance to the subject, the time to work with smaller apertures is when you are working near the minimum focusing distance of the lens with a large-in-the-frame subject.
4- Remember that WYSIWYG: what you see is what you get. If the whole subject looks completely sharp in the viewfinder, that means that it is covered by the d-o-f. In those case, there is no need to stop down at all.
5- That said, do understand that in such situations with long focal lengths d-o-f is measured in tiny fractions of an inch. Stopping down, therefore, will not help a ton.
6- As flying birds are generally a good distance away, you should — as a general rule, shoot flight at the wide open aperture so that you can maximize shutter speed at a given ISO.
As always, questions and comments are welcome.
Typos
With all blog posts, feel free to e-mail or to leave a comment regarding any typos or errors.
